Grill Red Snapper, Serve With Fruit Salsa

Hungry for a fresh approach to fish? Grilled red snapper with pineapple-peach salsa is a light and refreshing way to bring a hint of the islands to a springtime supper.

Red snapper is an excellent starting point. Mellow yet distinctively flavorful, firm but tender, snapper’s pearlescent flesh is perfect for the grill, especially if you take the precaution of using a hinged basket to make turning the fish midway during cooking less risky.

Marinating the fish produces a zesty counterpoint to the meat’s subtle character. To evoke the flavors of the Caribbean, we’re using a peppery coating that combines extra-virgin olive oil and garlic, both black and white ground pepper, cumin, fresh lemon juice and the zest of orange peel.

The flavor is further enhanced by a jazzy fruit salsa. Start with slices of fresh pineapple and halved peaches (or mangoes, if you can’t locate peaches in their prime). Complete the combination with diced red onion, chopped chilies and a drizzling of honey, plus splashes of fresh lime juice.

You’ll achieve the best flavors from the fresh fruit salsa if you quickly grill the pineapple and peaches just before you combine the ingredients. If you can’t handle another last-minute task, skip that step and you’ll still produce a refreshingly flavorful salsa. (Or cook out the evening before, grill the fruit then and set it aside in the refrigerator until the next day.)

Served with your favorite grain pilaf or just plain steamed rice, Red Snapper With Peach-Pineapple Salsa is a delectable way to beckon the warm breezes of spring.

Red Snapper With Peach-Pineapple Salsa

Fish:

3 pounds fresh red snapper fillets

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 to 1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon paprika

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

1/2 to 1 teaspoon salt

3 cloves garlic, minced

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon orange zest

Salsa:

2 large peaches (see note)

1 fresh pineapple

1/2 cup diced red onion

1 serrano chili pepper or 1 to 2 small jalapeno peppers

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1 to 2 teaspoons honey

Fresh lime juice to taste

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon salt

Garnish:

Chopped fresh mint

Wedges of fresh tomato

Rinse the fish under cool, running water and pat dry with paper towels. Place it skin-side down in a nonreactive container large enough to hold the fish in one layer. In a bowl, combine the olive oil, cumin, paprika, ground peppers, salt, garlic, juice and zest. Spoon and smooth the mixture over the fish. Cover and refrigerate 1 to 2 hours. (Don’t marinate overnight; the texture of the fish may be affected.)

While the fish marinates, prepare the salsa. Core, peel and slice the pineapple. Peel, halve and pit the peaches. Seed and dice the chili peppers.

About 30 to 40 minutes before you intend to serve dinner, start the charcoal for grilling. When the grill is ready, place the pineapple slices and peach halves in center of grate. (You may prefer to use a hinged grill basket, to prevent fruit from slipping through the grids.) Grill the fruit for 5 to 8 minutes, carefully turning once (using tongs and/or a metal spatula) midway through cooking. Remove the fruit to a plate and let cool.

Dice the fruit and place in a nonreactive bowl with the onion, chilies and cilantro. Sweeten with honey and fresh lime juice to taste, then sprinkle in salt, stirring, to taste. Allow the flavors to mingle while you grill the fish.

Lightly spray a hinged grilling basket with nonstick coating or brush it with olive oil. Remove fish from marinade, enclose in the prepared basket and let it drain for a couple of minutes over the sink.

Transfer fish to heated grill, skin-side up, and cook for 10 minutes per inch of thickness, turning once midway during cooking, just until fish is opaque and flakes with a fork.

Remove fish from grilling basket and transfer to warm plates or a serving platter. Serve over, or alongside, pilaf or steamed rice. Present salsa on the side or drape it over the fish.

Yield: 6-8 servings.

Note: You can assemble the salsa a day ahead of time. Skip grilling the pineapple and peaches if you must.