Fruit In A Shell Adding Lemon Juice And Cinnamon To Bland Peaches Gives Pie Tartness And Sweetness

Recently while choosing peaches for a tart, a shopper asked me to help her select peaches for her pie. (Is there something about a pyramid of peaches in the supermarket that subliminally says, “Bake a pie?”)

I explained that one should choose blemish-free peaches that give to slight pressure, that have a rich, yellow color without a tinge of green and that have an aroma that rivals perfume.

Unfortunately, great pie peaches aren’t always available. Too often peaches are picked before they are completely ripe, or are grown to have great eye appeal but a texture like that of a potato.

But since I didn’t want to discourage a potential baker, I shared my tips for a perfect peach dessert: Add lemon juice and cinnamon. Lemon juice adds zing to a bland peach and balance to a sweet one. Cinnamon compensates for the lack of fragrance in some peaches. Together, they should be enough to turn any peach into a delicious pie.

Since I prepare small-yield desserts, I usually make 7-inch tarts, not pies. For that, I need peaches that not only taste good, but are eye-appealing as well. A glaze of butter and ginger jam does the trick. It has a rich, tangy taste and shiny finish.

To my thinking, crusts are a pie- or tart-maker’s curse. That’s why I was thrilled to find a recipe that you just pat into a pan. No rolling. No fussing.

Next time I’m asked in the store, I’ll pass along the following recipe for a Fresh Peach Tart.

Fresh Peach Tart

Pastry (recipe follows)

3 medium peaches

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon butter

2 tablespoons ginger jam (see note)

Prepare pastry and pat into bottom and up sides of 7-inch tart pan with removable bottom. Chill while preparing filling.

Peel peaches. Thinly slice into bowl. Toss with lemon juice, cornstarch, cinnamon and sugar. Arrange peach slices in pastry. Spoon on any liquid remaining in the bowl.

Heat butter and jam in a small pan, or in a cup in the microwave, just until both melt. Spoon jam mixture over peaches.

Place tart pan on baking sheet. Bake at 375 degrees until peaches are tender and crust is golden, 35 to 45 minutes. Cool to room temperature.

Yield: 4 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 636 calories, 30.7 grams fat (43 percent fat calories), 7 grams protein, 86 grams carbohydrate, 81 milligrams cholesterol, 337 milligrams sodium.

Note: Ginger jam is available in many natural and gourmet food stores. If not available, simmer butter with 2 tablespoons apricot jam and 1 teaspoon chopped crystallized ginger.

Pastry

1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 tablespoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons flour

Mix together melted butter, vanilla and sugar in bowl until sugar dissolves. Add salt. Stir in flour to make soft dough. Stir just until dough can be formed into a ball.