A Fresh Red From Down Under

At a casual potluck, I uncorked nearly a dozen various varietals and asked sippers for their comments. Almost everyone agreed — the shiraz shined.

This easy-drinking red from Australia has a lot going for it. It’s soft and fruity, making it good with a wide range of foods. And it can be inexpensive: a well-made red wine for under $10. (There are also expensive versions that sell for up to $50, but I have yet to try any of those.)

Shiraz, also known as syrah in other parts of the world, is planted mostly in Australia, but also in South Africa. It’s often blended with cabernet, giving it a bit more heft.

Author Hugh Johnson calls the shiraz grape “hugely flexible ranging from velvety/earthy, spicy peppery … to brambly, rummy sweet.” The wine has been gaining fans worldwide, which translates to a shrinking supply.

The shiraz that was particularly impressive during that recent tasting was the ‘95 Norman’s Chais Clarendon, with bright, pretty, pinot-like fruit and a smidge of spice.

Other producers of Australian shiraz I’ve found to be consistently good include Rosemount Estate, Seaview (a shiraz-cab), Tyrell and Penfolds.

Also, I made a few calls after reading a story in Wine X magazine about sparkling shiraz. It turns out these “black beauties,” as they’re called down under, are too obscure to show up on shelves around here. Something to look for in the big city, if you’re interested in such novelties.

The X files

I’m too old to fully appreciate Wine X, the magazine geared to Generation You-know-who. But it does offer an entertaining alternative to the froufrou language used by some wine writers. (Not me, pal.)

The following descriptions in its buying guide read like some kind of beat poetry:

“This is Michael Jordan on a slam dunk” it says of La Crema’s ‘95 zinfandel.

The Peachy Canyon zin is “just like your first rock concert - wild, intense, intoxicating and very cool.”

“Like RuPaul, not terribly varietal” is what the tasting panel thinks of the ‘95 zinfandel from Beaulieu Vineyards.

The zin from Zabasco is “Big, bold and jammin’, baby. Gots to have this one!”

It’s easy to smirk at such dude-style prose, but this slick mag should be required reading for today’s market-savvy wine producers. They’re talking to tomorrow’s consumers.

To subscribe, call (888) 229-4639.

Sweet start to spring

Worden’s is throwing its fourth annual red wine and chocolate party tomorrow night from 5:30 until 8:30.

This event is a good excuse to get out to the winery and sip some of its reserve releases, available only at that venue. Making their first appearances are the ‘96 reserve merlot and lemberger. Should be dandy with the candy from Hallett’s.

There’s no admission charge, but you need to call 455-7835 to reserve a spot.

Spring is traditionally when the whites made the previous fall start showing up, too. Look for Worden’s new gewurztraminer and riesling from the ‘97 vintage.

Of the recent releases I’ve tried, my favorite was the riesling, a lush, ripe-fruit treat that might be too sweet for some. Yet it has a crispness backing that up, like a crunchy apple. Lay in a supply for summer barbecue season.

Speaking of soirees

You can visit the Washington Wine Commission’s new Web site (www.WashingtonWine.org) to learn about upcoming wine events, including a real biggie scheduled for next month.

Taste Washington is being billed as a “gigantic winemaker’s dinner” with more than 50 winemakers and 40 top chefs from around the state plying their wares. It’s April 19 from 4 until 8 p.m. at the Paramount Theater in Seattle.

Spokane will be well-represented by Arbor Crest, Caterina, Latah Creek, Mountain Dome and Knipprath Cellars.

Also, chef Karla Graves from Paprika is going to prepare smoked Muscovy duck on hazelnut bread with dried cherry-cabernet conserve. That savory snackeroo will be paired with the ‘94 vintner’s select cabernet sauvignon from Bookwalter.

Tickets for this event are $50 and can be purchased through Ticketmaster at (206) 292-ARTS. Proceeds will be donated to the Northwest Wine Benefit Foundation scholarship fund.

Tasting notes

I know I’m always preaching “Think Globally, Drink Locally,” but a couple of California producers have piqued my palate lately.

Clos du Bois is a Sonoma fixture with a talented woman winemaker at the helm.

Unlike wineries that must rely on other sources for fruit, Clos du Bois has 520 acres of varietal grapes. The best of the bunch are gleaned for the vineyard-designated wines and the latest red is a real knockout.

The ‘94 Marlstone is a perfectly put together blend of cabernet and merlot with a bit of malbec, petite verdot and cabernet franc. (I like that the label gives you the percentages right up front.) Deep, rich, chocolaty flavors layered with ripe cherry and berry make this a smooth one. It’s expensive, at $20-plus, but a worthy splurge.

As are the reserve reds from Atlas Peak, fast becoming one of my favorite out-of-state wineries. I love the ‘94 cabernet from the Consenso Vineyards in Napa Valley. It tastes of licorice and cherries with a subtle smoky quality thrown in the mix. It’s around $22. Try Atlas Peak’s powerful reserve sangiovese, too.

Finally, I don’t usually dis wines in print - don’t like to waste the space - but I was supremely disappointed in an effort from a California vintner I usually admire between big sips. Bonny Doon’s “Cardinal Zin” could never achieve the hype churned out on the cutesy label: “It is a Cardinal Zin to be inordinately proud of this wildly spicy, full-bodied paean …”

Indeed. I loved the Ralph Steadman artwork adorning the bottle, but the wine inside was flat and grapey - a $17 bummer. Maybe winemaker-raconteur Randall Graham should be less concerned with appearances. Or perhaps he should apply for a writing job at Wine X magazine.

, DataTimes MEMO: Grapevine is a monthly feature of IN Food. Write to: Grapevine, Features Department, The Spokesman-Review, P.O. Box 2160, Spokane, WA 99210. Call 459-5486, fax 459-5098 or e-mail to lesliek@spokesman.com

The following fields overflowed: CREDIT = Leslie Kelly The Spokesman-Review