Catch These Cabs For Turkey Day

Every year when the holidays roll around, food and wine writers face a huge challenge: How can we give the same tired subject a fresh new spin?

There’s only so much you can say about roast turkey and toasts to ring in the New Year.

Yet the subject of what wine goes with the Thanksgiving dinner has taken more twists and turns than the new road through Bonner’s Ferry. Over the past decade, I’ve suggested pouring everything from pinot noir (a personal fave) to spicy gewurztraminer. There’s the annual appearance of the ever-popular beaujolais nouveau. We’ve also made a also made a trip down the “drink local” path.

But my best tip for turkey day tippling remains simply this: Drink what you like. Be thankful we live in a part of the world where we have the freedom to decide what wine will share our table, whether it’s red, white or pink. God bless America!

Being a quasi-nonconformist, I’m cooking duck instead of that other bird. And I’ll be pouring a few of the fabulous Washington cabernets that are starting to show up from the 1996 vintage.

That was the year of the big chill. Bitter cold in January and February reduced yields by up to 50 percent in some parts of the state. Fewer grapes on the vine led to intense, concentrated flavors in the fruit that did grow. Kind of a survival of the fittest thing.

At a recent tasting of ‘96 cabernets, a couple of clear favorites emerged (and this feisty group rarely agrees on anything). The biggest surprise was that the top picks turned out to be the most reasonably priced, too.

The red table wine from Canoe Ridge is mostly cabernet and came off as the most drinkable of the bunch. But it wasn’t all fruit and no muscle; the deeply colored wine had good balance with a little spice. And it was smooth city.

It sells for around $12, but is in short supply, so call around.

I’m also splurging on a ‘96 Woodward Canyon cab from the winery’s artist series. I haven’t popped the cork yet on this $30 bottle, but winemaker Rick Small describes the contents as “beautifully proportioned with cherry, vanilla, chocolate and toasted oak.” (No, he’s not describing an ice cream sundae.)

Other ‘96 Washington cabs worth catching include Covey Run, Columbia Crest, Caterina, Chateau Ste. Michelle, Paul Thomas, Powers and Willridge.

Wrap these up

There are a few nifty new books on the market that might make a good gift for the wine lover on your holiday shopping list:

Northwest wine writer Chuck Hill has come out with “The Gourmet’s Guide to Northwest Wines and Wineries.” It includes extensive listings of wineries in Oregon, Idaho, Washington and British Columbia, along with mouthwatering recipes from some of the best chefs in the Northwest. (I can’t wait to try Macrina Bakery’s pear and Oregon bleu cheese tart, among others.)

The guide also lists lodging and dining suggestions in the various touring areas. In Spokane, Hill likes Luna, Fugazzi, Cafe 5-Ten, Patsy Clark’s and Milford’s Fish House, so obviously he’s got good taste.

Autographed copies are available for $16.95 at Caterina Winery. Online, it’s sold by Amazon.com and BarnesandNoble.com. To order from the publisher (Speed Graphics), call (206) 284-8800.

Though I’m not keen on the title of this series, the second edition of “Wine for Dummies” is a pretty entertaining look at the basics of enjoying fermented grapes. (Sample chapter title: “These Taste Buds Are for You.”) It sells for $20 at bookstores everywhere.

And while others are wringing their hands over how to best deal with the supposed Y2K catastrophe, some folks are mulling over which champagne to swill when the century ends. British wine writer Tom Stevenson weighs in with “The Millennium Champagne Sparkling Wine Guide” (DK Publishing, $19.95).

In this compact guide, Stevenson covers the usual ground, but with a bit more depth than most bubbly books. Lots of photos and graphics help keep the reader moving through the breezy text.

It’s organized in alphabetical order by producer following chapters on each country, with the largest number of pages dedicated to France. Naturally.

There is one paragraph devoted to Washington state sparklers, which gushes: “Dr. Michael Manz is currently making this state’s most serious fizz at the Mountain Dome winery in Spokane.”

I’ll second that!

Speaking of sparklers

While we’re on the subject, I don’t want to be an alarmist, but there was an eye-catching item in the September newsletter from Vino.

This “alert” read: “Champagne is facing an extreme scarcity due to the upcoming millennium celebrations. Estimates are that by next July, none will be available.”

Sounds mighty serious. Better stock up today, so you’ll have something to sip when your computer crashes.

Coming right up

Famous wines, trips and dinners will be auctioned during KPBX public radio’s annual holiday party on Dec. 4. There will be wine samples, appetizers and live music by the Celtic Nots at this shindig that starts at 5 p.m. at Silver Collector Auctions, 2020 N. Monroe. Tickets are $10 in advance; call 328-5729.

Walla Walla wineries host a barrel tasting and holiday open house Dec. 5 and 6 from 11 a.m. until 4 p.m. The annual event features sips straight from the barrel, which should give tasters an preview of what to expect of the 1998 vintage (said to be an incredible year for grapes).

Each participating winery will also offer special attractions ranging from cooking demonstrations to live music at their various facilities located throughout the Walla Walla area. Winemakers will be on hand to answer questions.

Participating wineries include Waterbrook, Woodward Canyon, Seven Hills, Canoe Ridge, Glen Fiona, L’Ecole No. 41, Walla Walla Vintners and Patrick M. Paul. For details, call (509) 522-1262.

Sample some of that fancy French bubbly during Vino’s annual champagne tasting Dec. 6 at 6:30 p.m. at Mizuna. The lineup will feature such “luxury cuvees” as La Grande Dame and Perrier Jouet’s Fleur, along with Tattinger, Roederer and nonvintage Veuve Clicquot. Appetizers will be served. Tickets are $50 and can be purchased by calling the wine shop at 838-1229.