Digging Into The Potato

Ask most people where their food comes from and they won’t miss a beat in answering: “The supermarket.”

Well, not exactly.

A century ago, our society was intimately acquainted with the source of its daily bread because America was primarily an agricultural-based economy.

These days, there’s not the same sense of attachment to the land. Most folks no longer harvest their own food. They load it into the shopping cart at the end of a busy day without giving a fig about how it’s produced.

Today, we’re introducing The Source, a new monthly feature in which we explore the nitty-gritty details about where food comes from and how it’s grown - whether it’s lentils from the Palouse, kiwi fruit from New Zealand or lamb raised in Ellensburg.

It seems logical to start with one of most high-profile vegetables in the country those famous Idaho potatoes.

Yes, Washington has its “Watatoes,” but Idaho produces one-third of the nation’s potatoes, mostly a variety called Russet Burbank. Also known as bakers, they’re distinguished by their light, fluffy texture tucked inside a rough brown skin.

These sturdy spuds are mostly grown in the southern central part of the state, in the Snake River Plain. There, volcanic soil deposited thousands of years ago, warm summer days and cool nights, and a long season combine for ideal growing conditions.

A good portion of those russets ends up in products such as potato chips, french fries and tater nuggets.

The Idaho Potato Commission sponsors a program for schoolchildren to help them make the connection between “the farm and the fork.” (Or, in the case of most kids, between the farm and the deep-fryer.)

The lessons cover planting seed potatoes, the growing cycle, and harvest, which typically occurs between August and October.

Over the past 10 years, a new crop of potato farmers specializing in exotic, heirloom varieties has begun to flourish in Idaho.

At Ronniger Farms near Bonners Ferry, more than 20 varieties are grown. Some of the fingerling potatoes with names such as Ruby Crescent, Butterfinger and Russian Banana are highly sought after by famous chefs across the country.

David Ronniger plants his crop in May, placing the seed potatoes in rows of mounded dirt. The 15-inch-high hills look something like pyramids.

“Potatoes need a soft environment to grow in. They like loose, well-drained soil around them,” Ronniger said.

The hills are reshaped after the vines begin to emerge a month later. At that stage, the plants don’t require much attention aside from the occasional check for pests or disease. In some instances, they don’t even need to be watered.

For more than 20 years, Ronniger has dry-farmed his potatoes, growing them without irrigation. Too much water dilutes the taste of potatoes, he said. Then again, too little water puts stress on the plant. Last year, after several years of drought, he began experimenting with drip irrigation.

“We’ll probably plant several acres using irrigation, some of the longer-growing varieties,” Ronniger said.

After potatoes are harvested, they’re stored in a well-ventilated root cellar. That process, known as curing, helps firm the skins.

Then they’re graded according to shape and size, and sent to market. Ronniger ships via United Parcel Service from October until the following June before running out of stock and starting the cycle all over again.

Given America’s fondness for a meat-and-potato diet, most cooks have a favorite tater recipe. But for the purist, it’s tough to top a baked potato with all the trimmings.

The folks at the Idaho Potato Commission suggest using a fork, rather than a knife, to split the skin of a hot potato. Pierce it in a zigzag pattern and pinch the sides together until it “blossoms.”

Then load it up with butter, sour cream, chives and bacon bits. Umm, umm. (Calorie counters can substitute fat-free ranch dressing.)

Or, make it “twice nuked” with the following microwave recipe from the official “Grown in Idaho” Web site (www.idahopotatoes.com).

Chive-Stuffed Potatoes

By the way, February is “Potato Lover’s Month.”

4 large Idaho russet potatoes

1/4 cup margarine

1 (3-ounce) package light cream cheese

1/3 cup chopped fresh chives

1/4 cup skim milk

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

Scrub potatoes and pierce several times with a fork. Wrap each potato in a microwave-safe paper towel; arrange 1 inch apart. Microwave on high power for 12 to 14 minutes. Let cool to touch. Slice away skin from top of each potato and carefully scoop out pulp, leaving shells intact. Mash pulp.

Combine margarine and cream cheese in a medium microwave-safe bowl. Microwave on high for 30 to 40 seconds, or until cream cheese is softened. Add potato pulp, chives, milk, salt and pepper, mixing well. Stuff potato shells with mixture.

Place stuffed potatoes on paper towels. Microwave on high 3 minutes or until thoroughly heated.

Yield: 4 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 407 calories, 14 grams fat (31 percent fat calories), 9 grams protein, 63 grams carbohydrate, 8 milligrams cholesterol, 2 grams dietary fiber, 508 milligrams sodium.