Elegance made easy

Gina Freuen comes from a long line of good country cooks. Over the years she has added her own artistic touches to produce easy, elegant and delicious holiday dinners.

“Growing up on a farm, everything we did centered around food,” said Freuen, a Spokane ceramic artist. “Both my mother’s parents loved to cook and they passed that along to my mother and her three sisters, who are all still amazing cooks. My father’s side of the family has wonderful, traditional fresh-from-the-land cooks.”

Freuen’s parents, Dede and Bob McKay of Spokane, raised seven children on their small family farm outside of Walla Walla. “As children, our largest cultural influences were farming, 4-H and art,” said Freuen.

Her mother, Dede McKay, is a realist painter and her artistic talent was reflected in the meals she served.

“There was always a flair and dramatic presentation to our holiday meals,” said Freuen. “They were invariably a feast for the eyes as well as the stomach.”

As long as Freuen can remember, at least four generations of family have gathered every year for big traditional holiday dinners. “We look forward to these dinners all year,” she said. “They have become a way of staying in touch with family members who live all over the state.”

Her sister, artist Kay O’Rourke, agreed.

“Thanksgiving and Christmas are huge food occasions,” said O’Rourke. “When I was younger I would always try to fix something that would ‘wow’ my aunts’ socks off. You would take pride in what you made.”

Over the years, there were enough incredible family recipes that Freuen and O’Rourke compiled two cookbooks.

The first, “Family Porch Cookbook,” was self-published in 1979, with another limited run in the late 1990s. (A few copies are available for $12 at Auntie’s Bookstore.) The second, “Back Porch Cookbook,” premiered in 1991 and is out of print.

Even though today Freuen frequently finds recipes in Bon Appetit magazine and the Barefoot Contessa cookbooks, she still relies on tried-and-true recipes for favorite family dishes.

“My children get very upset when certain traditional dishes are altered,” said Freuen.

Easy, elegant dinner

Both the farm and contemporary influences are reflected in the menu she created for one elegant family Christmas dinner.

The menu included: Cod Chowder with Saffron and Fingerling Potatoes, Mandarin Nut Salad, Roast Prime Rib, Scalloped Potatoes with Blue Cheese and Rosemary, Marinated Broccoli with Red Peppers and Rich Roll Cookies. She shared her recipes for the dinner below.

“Every year my husband’s side of the family does a gift exchange and members of the family take turns in putting the evening together,” said Freuen. “The year I made this menu I wanted the dinner to have an elegant feel. I decided it called for everyone to sit around a table instead of eating buffet style.”

With 25 expected for dinner, Freuen and her husband, Dennis, removed all the living room furniture and put down two 4-by 8-feet sheets of plywood on sawhorses. She covered the plywood with white tablecloths and created a Dickens’s Village for the centerpiece.

“There was a place for everyone at the table,” she said. “It was really fun.”

Advance preparation

One of the reasons Freuen’s dinner was fun was because of her pre-planning. (See the Easy and Elegant Countdown for her tips.)

She selected recipes that could be prepared in advance and refrigerated or frozen until the day of the event. One recipe that can be made days in advance and stored in air-tight containers is the Rich Roll Cookies.

“Gina has always made the most wonderful Christmas sugar cookies,” said O’Rourke. “For the past three or four years she has been passing along that tradition to her young nieces and nephews by holding a cooking-making party.”

This year Katlin and Hayley Nystrom of Spokane helped their Aunt Gina prepare cookies that will become part of the holiday table centerpiece until they are eaten as dessert.

“I feel strongly that memories are made anytime a family gets around a dinner table with food,” Freuen said.

This bouillabaisse-style chowder is very easy to prepare in the time that the prime rib is cooking.

Cod Chowder with Saffron and Fingerling Potatoes

Adapted from a Bon Appetit recipe

4 thick cut slices bacon (about 1/4 -pound), cut into 2-inch pieces

1 1/2 cup chopped leeks or onion (2 leeks or 1 small onion)

4 (8-ounce) bottles of clam juice

1 pound fingerling or small yellow potatoes cut crosswise into ¼-inch thick rounds

1/2 cup water

2 teaspoons fresh thyme

1/2 teaspoon crumbled saffron threads

1 cup whipping cream

6 (5-ounce) cod fillets or crab

Cook bacon in heavy large pot over medium heat until crisp. Using slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain. Add leaks or onion to the drippings in pot and cook until tender, stirring frequently, about 4 minutes. Add clam juice, potatoes, 1/2 cup water, thyme and saffron. Bring to a boil; reduce heat to medium and cover. Simmer until potatoes are tender, stirring occasionally, about 7 minutes. Stir in the cream and reserved bacon. Season chowder to taste with salt and pepper.

Sprinkle cod with salt and pepper (if using crab, skip this step); place atop chowder. Cover and cook until cod is opaque in center, about 10 minutes. To serve, use a slotted spoon to remove a portion of the cod or crab to a serving bowl, ladle chowder over and serve.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate.

The dressing for this salad can be made the day before and refrigerated. Prepare the salad the morning you will be serving it and put it in a big zip-top plastic bag to keep it fresh.

Mandarin Nut Salad

From “Back Porch Cookbook”

For the dressing:

1/2 red onion sliced thinly

1 teaspoon salt

4 tablespoons sugar

4 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1/2 cup salad oil

Dash of red pepper sauce

2 tablespoons minced parsley

For the salad:

1 cleaned head loose-leaf red lettuce, torn

1 cleaned head romaine, torn

1 1/2 cups chopped celery

2 (11-ounce) cans mandarin oranges

3/4 cups chopped walnuts

Seeds from 1 pomegranate

1 cup of chopped almond nut clusters (recipe follows)

During a break in the main course preparation, pour dressing into serving bowl and then place salad mix on top. Cover with plastic wrap and keep cool. Do not toss. Just before serving, add the chopped almond nut clusters and toss the dressing into salad. Serve.

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

Nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate.

These Nut Clusters are a holiday tradition for Gina Freuen. She makes many batches of this almond brittle to give as gifts and to set out for family gatherings, always reserving some for the Mandarin Nut Salad. Make them one batch at a time. Do not double the recipe as it makes caramelizing the sugar more difficult. They can be made up to three days ahead.

Nut Clusters

From “Family Porch Cookbook”

2 cups whole, unblanched almonds

1/2 cup sugar

2 tablespoons unsalted sweet butter

1 teaspoon vanilla

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

Prepare a large piece of tin foil by buttering it well. Heat almonds, sugar and butter in a 9-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring constantly until golden, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat when sugar is fully caramelized and stir in vanilla. Spread mixture onto prepared surface, sprinkle with kosher salt and break into clusters when cool.

Roast Prime Rib

From Bon Appetit, December 1998

9-pound prime rib beef roast (about 4 ribs)

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

4 teaspoons minced garlic

2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon mixed whole peppercorns, coarsely crushed.

For the Au Jus:

1/3 cup minced shallots

3 1/2 cups canned beef broth

1/3 cup cognac or brandy

Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 450 degrees. Place beef, fat side up, in shallow roasting pan. Sprinkle beef with salt. Mix mustard and garlic in small bowl. Spread mustard mixture over top of beef. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons crushed peppercorns over mustard mixture. Roast beef 15 minutes. Reduce heat to 325 degrees. Roast until meat thermometer inserted into center of beef registers 125 degrees for medium-rare, tenting loosely with foil if crust browns too quickly, about 2 hours 45 minutes. Transfer beef to platter. Tent with foil to keep warm.

Pour pan juices into 2-cup glass measuring cup (do not clean pan). Freeze juice for 10 minutes. Spoon fat off top of pan juices, returning 1 tablespoon fat to roasting pan. Reserve juices.

Melt fat in same roasting pan over medium high heat. Add shallots and saute until tender, scraping up any browned bits from bottom of pan, about 2 minutes. Remove pan from heat. Add canned beef broth, then cognac (liquid may ignite). Return pan to heat and boil until liquid is reduced to 2 cups, about 15 minutes. Add pan juices and remaining 1 teaspoon crushed peppercorns. Transfer pan juices to sauceboat.

Carve roast and serve with juices, fresh horseradish or a horseradish sauce. Whip 1 cup of whipping cream until stiff peaks form, add horseradish to taste.

Yield: 8 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: 463 calories, 25 grams fat (11 grams saturated, 51 percent fat calories), 53 grams protein, 2 grams carbohydrate, 154 milligrams cholesterol, less than 1 gram dietary fiber, 216 milligrams sodium.

This recipe was included in an advertisement by the potato industry in Bon Appetit. “The recipe was easy to miss because it was an ad but wow, I am sure glad I didn’t,” Freuen said. The recipe can be made two days in advance, covered and refrigerated. Before serving, bring potatoes to room temperature; reheat in a 350-degree oven until hot.

Scalloped Potatoes with Blue Cheese and Rosemary

6 to 8 russet potatoes, depending on the serving dish size

2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary

3/4 cup crumbled blue cheese

3/4 cup grated parmesan cheese

For the sauce:

1 cup sour cream (Freuen uses light sour cream)

2 cups cream (Freuen uses a light cream)

1 teaspoon salt

Preheat oven to 350 degrees

Prepare a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with butter or a light cooking spray.

Peel and slice the potatoes into 1/4 -inch slices. Toss them in a large bowl with the 2 teaspoons salt, pepper and rosemary. In a small bowl toss together the cheeses. Layer half the potatoes in the prepared baking dish. Sprinkle with half the cheese mixture. Top with the remaining potatoes. In a bowl, whisk together sauce ingredients and pour over potatoes. Tap the baking dish on the counter to spread out the sauce and release air bubbles. Sprinkle with cheese mixture to taste. Bake potatoes for about 1 hour 15 minutes, or until browned and completely tender all the way through when poked with a knife.

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving, based on 10: 297 calories, 15 grams fat, (9.6 grams saturated, 46 percent fat calories), 10 grams protein, 31 grams carbohydrate, 47 milligrams cholesterol, 2 grams dietary fiber, 1,000 milligrams sodium.

Marinated Broccoli with Red Peppers

From “Back Porch Cookbook”

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons grated ginger

1/4 teaspoon salt and a pinch of pepper

4 cups fresh blanched broccoli spears (steamed for 4 to 7 minutes depending desired tenderness)

1/2 cup julienned red bell peppers

1/2 cup sliced water chestnuts

1/4 cup diagonally sliced green onions

1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds

Combine olive oil, vinegar, lemon juice, sugar, ginger, salt and pepper for dressing. (This can be made several days in advance.) Blanch the broccoli and while it is still warm add the red bell peppers and water chestnuts. Toss the warm vegetables with dressing no longer than 1 hour before serving. Garnish with onion and sesame seeds.

Yield: 8 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: 61 calories, 3.4 grams fat (0.5 grams saturated, 55 percent fat calories), 0.7 grams protein, 5.6 grams protein, 5.6 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, 1.3 grams dietary fiber, 153 milligrams sodium.

You can make these cookies as far ahead of time as you like and freeze them. Frost and decorate as early as two days in advance. Freuen recommends serving the cookies with a really good quality peppermint. The chocolate sauce is optional.

Rich Roll Cookies

Adapted from the “Joy of Cooking” (1971)

1 cup of butter, room temperature

2/3 cup sugar

1 egg

2 1/2 cups sifted all purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon vanilla

In a large bowl, beat butter and sugar. Add egg. In a separate bowl, combine flour and salt, then stir into butter mixture. Stir in 1 teaspoon vanilla.

Chill dough 3 to 4 hours before rolling. Only roll out part of the cookie dough at a time. Use a pastry cloth dusted with flour and keep the rolling pin lightly dusted. (This helps eliminate a lot of the sticking. Using too much flour in the rolling process makes the cookies tough.)

Roll dough out to a little less than 1/4 -inch thick. Dip cookie cutter in flour lightly to keep it from sticking when cutting. Place the shaped cookies close together on an ungreased cookie sheet. Bake cookies in a preheated oven of 350 degrees for 8 to 10 minutes until slightly colored. Cool and frost with Simple Frosting. (Recipe below).

Yield: About 60 (2-inch) cookies

Approximate nutrition per cookie: 62 calories, 3.2 grams fat (1 gram saturated, 46 percent fat calories), 0.7 grams protein, 7.8 grams carbohydrate, 11 milligrams cholesterol, less than 1 gram dietary fiber, 52 milligrams sodium.

Simple Frosting

1 cup confectioner’s sugar

1 egg white

Lemon juice

Combine confectioner’s sugar, egg white and a splash of lemon juice.

Frost a few cookies at a time, sprinkling or hand placing the decorations as you go. If you wait to decorate until all the cookies are frosted, the frosting will have set up and won’t accept the sprinkles. After frosting and decorating, let cookies set for 24 hours before stacking.

This chocolate sauce can be made earlier in the week, then warmed over a double boiler. Cool and serve over ice cream.

Chocolate Sauce

From “Back Porch Cookbook”

1/2 pound (1 cup) butter

1 1/2 cups sugar

6 heaping teaspoons Hershey’s cocoa

1 small can Carnation evaporated milk

Combine all ingredients in a medium sauce pan. Stir the cocoa into the sugar first so no lumps will form. Cook on medium heat until all ingredients are combined and you do not taste any sugar crystals. Cool and serve over ice cream.

Yield: About 2 cups chocolate sauce

Approximate nutrition per 2-tablespoons: 147 calories, 9 grams fat (5 grams saturated, 55 percent fat calories), less than 1 gram protein, 16 grams carbohydrate, 25 milligrams cholesterol, less than 1 gram dietary fiber, 103 milligrams sodium.