Homemade jerky becomes reality

‘I … have … made … jerky!” OK, so it’s not quite Tom Hanks’ fire-making moment in “Cast Away,” but I still feel pretty good about it.

With my first art fair trip of the year looming, I decided to finally get off my duff and make my favorite road food: beef jerky. In all the thousands of miles I’ve driven I’ve rarely left home without beef sticks, jerky, pork rinds and a few Cokes for the occasional sugar/caffeine boost. Yes, I’m a road-food-junk man, bag of dried prunes notwithstanding.

I’ve read the basics of jerky making many times and considered winging it, but to ensure a risk-free trial at least this first time I decided to buy a commercial seasoning mix. Hi Mountain makes a wide variety of blends (I grabbed the Cajun) and each package good for 15 pounds of meat for a bit under $7.00

Although you can use all kinds of meats (even extra-lean ground beef), the instructions recommended a cut of whole muscle such as flank steak for your first try. Slice it thin, about 1/4 -inch thick, with the grain. I highly recommend freezing the meat for a couple of hours or so before slicing. It cuts easier, doesn’t wiggle around, and you’re more likely to keep all of your fingers intact. I made several phone inquiries and most groceries are willing to do that chore for you. (Reactions were kind of like, “Duh, this is the meat department.”)

Comparing dollars and cents, it looks like an average price for a medium-size bag of jerky is $5.99 for 3.65 ounces, or about $1.65 per ounce. Flank steak, unfortunately not on special, was $5.99 per pound and my 20-ouncer set me back $7.50. How much would it shrink? Clueless and curious, I got to work, ending up with 26 slices of about 10 to 11 inches long, and another dozen or so odd shorter ones.

The instructions said that the cure penetrates 1/4 -inch-thick slices in 24 hours and to base your storage time accordingly. I wanted to experiment, so I did two batches, the first in 20 hours, the second at 25. I gave the first one 5 hours in the oven, the second about 4 1/4 . Both variations made a significant difference. The flavor of the second batch was spicier and fuller, also softer and easier to chew, though still decently dried.

Discounting the trial pieces I tested along the way, my scale gave me a final weight of 10 ounces, or about 80 cents an ounce, taking into account the cost of the cure. The verdict? Like comparing one of my heirloom tomatoes, fresh from the garden, with your average grocery store brick. I just grabbed a piece: it has a pleasingly chewy, not tough, texture, with a meaty appearance and small flecks of marbling, and a rich, just slightly salty flavor. Trust me, it’s not going to make it through a day’s drive and I’m already thinking of improvements for next time.

Hi Mountain Flank Steak Jerky

1 1/4 pounds flank steak, sliced 1/4 -inch thick, with the grain

2 1/2 teaspoons jerky cure (see note)

1 1/2 teaspoons jerky spices (see note)

Mix the cure and spices together and sprinkle all over the strips, turning frequently, in a large mixing bowl, pressing the cure well into the strips. Pack tightly together on a sheet of plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 hours.

Heat oven to warm, about 170 degrees, and use a wooden spoon to prop door open about an inch. Line a couple of 12-by-18-inch baking sheets with foil, place drying racks on top and lay the jerky strips across, leaving 1/2 inch of space in between. Turn strips after 2 hours. Continue to dry to desired consistency, about 4-5 hours total. Pat dry and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

Note: Follow package directions for amount of cure and spices per pound of meat.

Yield: About 10 ounces of jerky

Nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate.