Grapevine: Townshend wines stellar

I wish we could clone Don Townshend.

We need more winemakers in this state that do things his way, instead of entering the bigger-is-better sweepstakes. Townshend seems to be unaffected by the usual winemakers’ quest for big scores and superfluous medals. Instead, he is making wine the way it should be made, with an emphasis on scent, flavor and elegance. His newest lineup of wines, just now being released, is simply stellar.

Both whites and reds clock in at moderate alcohol levels, a goal that many winemakers in this state have yet to achieve. Better yet, these wines explode with fragrance. Wine professionals will rarely agree about much, but almost no one would argue that more information (and pleasure) is carried by a wine’s aromas than by its flavors.

The problem is that so many wines made today – particularly in the New World – sacrifice nuance and aroma for power and ripeness. As a result you get jam, oak and alcohol in spades, but you give up the myriad subtle delights that more elegant wines can bring.

Another plus: Townshend bottle ages his red wines before they are released. The reds just coming out are from the 2001 vintage. This represents a considerable economic investment, as the winery has warehoused these wines an extra two or three years. Most wineries are now selling their 2004 and 2005 reds, and they can be quite enjoyable with primary fruit flavors. But if you want to see where those wines are going, you’d better be ready to tuck them away for some time. Townshend’s reds don’t have to be cellared before they are “ready” to drink. They are ready, Freddie.

And one more thing – many of these wines, especially the immensely appealing white wines, are priced low enough for everyday enjoyment. These taste like special occasion wines, but they aren’t priced like special occasion wines.

They are not heavy, jammy or “hedonistic” in the traditional sense. But they certainly aren’t dull, thin or wimpy. Their flavors persist in the mouth with impressive length. In short, these are fascinating, evocative wines that showcase a style that may not get the big scores from the big critics – but they should be in every wine lover’s cellar.

Townshend 2005 Sauvignon Blanc; $10: The first-ever sauvignon blanc from Townshend is a fragrant, elegant, delicate wine with suggestions of mint, chervil, hay and fresh greens. Its flavors favor fig and lemon wax. There is nothing aggressively herbaceous here, but the grape retains its varietal grassiness.

Townshend 2004 Chenin Blanc; $10: This is Washington chenin like you’ve rarely seen it – barrel fermented and concentrated like fruit candy. An excellent follow-up to the debut 2003 chenin, this is bursting with floral scents and the honeyed sweetness of the grape.

Townshend 2004 Viognier; $10: Another showstopper, this intense wine sports an unusual mix of scents – wood, flower, fruit candy and menthol mint. There’s a resinous quality that lifts the palate, and a honeyed toastiness wrapped into a wine of extraordinary concentration. It’s just amazing that you can find this much flavor in a $10 wine.

On to the reds…

Townshend 2003 Sangiovese; $19: This feather-light sangiovese is beautifully balanced, slightly floral, and blessed with good length. The fruit is almost ethereal, but not wimpy, attenuated or dull. It’s like drinking air.

Townshend 2003 Syrah; $19: Another stylish wine with a light touch. The flavors are airy, like whipped butter, but full and never tiring. Citrus and berry fill the palate, along with cracked pepper and dried leaf.

Townshend 2001 Merlot; $24: This is nicely aged and drinks like a mature, well-cellared wine. A bit of cabernet and cabernet franc are blended in to beef it up, but it’s merlot that is the star here with lovely mature flavors of dried cherry, dried plum and tobacco. Brilliant structure and surprising length; it’s one of those Energizer bunny wines that never stops.

Townshend 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon; $29: Another fine effort, this cabernet shows fruit heading into maturity, with hints of prune, cooked cherry and raisin. You will also taste caramel, brown sugar, smoke, pepper – a three-ring circus of flavor, but always done in an elegant, balanced, food-friendly style.

Townshend 2001 Cabernet Franc; $24: This is the most firm and tannic of Townshend’s lineup, an earthy, slightly chalky wine with excellent varietal character and definition. The fruit is clean and well-delineated, with grace notes of coffee and coconut.

Townshend 2001 Reserve Red; $34: This classic Bordeaux blend – 55 percent cabernet sauvignon, 30 percent cabernet franc and 15 percent merlot – spends over 30 months in French and American oak. It emerges with more tannin, more density, but a bit less bouquet and elegance than the other reds.