Chocolatiers stimulate local economy via sweets

The economy may have soured, but folks haven’t stopped indulging in something sweet. According to Spokane area chocolatiers, the economic downturn has not substantially affected chocolate sales.

“People want to treat themselves since they are cutting back on other things,” said Karalee Borquin, manager of The Chocolate Apothecary in the Flour Mill.

One of the store’s strongest sellers is the Chuao Spicy Maya bar, Venezuelan chocolate with chili peppers and cayenne.

Marta Johnson, owner of Spokane’s OMO Chocolates, reports that sales are steady. She has made a effort to make her chocolates affordable for her customers by offering five truffles for $10.

Her location near Vino! and Saunders Cheese Market has been beneficial, as chocolate goes well with wine and cheese. People who are shopping for dinner parties hit all three stores.

“People come in and feel relaxed. They take a chocolate break and their blood pressure drops by 10 points,” Johnson laughed. Her chocolates are made fresh daily, a feature her customers value.

Johnson has just relocated to a larger space at 224 S. Washington St., just a few doors down from her original spot next to the cheese shop. After she gets settled, she hopes to have Friday night chocolate tastings.

The current recession is nothing new to Spokandy. Founded in 1913, the Spokane chocolatier has weathered wars, winter storms and the Great Depression.

“We’ve taken measures to protect ourselves,” said owner Todd Davis.

With four retail locations, a wholesale business and corporate clients, when sales are down in one division, sales pick up in another. Spokandy’s sales have remained strong over the years by responding to market trends, such as introducing sugar-free products about seven years ago when the Atkins diet revolution hit. Retail and wholesale sales of sugar-free products now account for roughly 30 percent of Spokandy’s business.

Spokane’s Chocolate Myracles is another company that is thriving despite the economic downturn. Chocolate Myracles is celebrating three years in business by introducing a new chocolate bar.

Owner Julia Balassa-Myracle grew up in southern Mexico and recalls grinding cocoa beans with a hand mill and making chocolate as a little girl.

“Chocolate is a big part of my culture,” she said.

Montezuma and his harem

The ancient Central American civilizations of the Olmecs and Aztecs are credited with cultivating beans from the cacoa tree, or Theobroma cacoa, meaning “drink of the gods.” Prepared by grinding the cacoa beans, adding water and hot chilies, the resulting liquid was poured back and forth or whipped with a wooden paddle to produce a frothy, brown beverage.

“To the Aztecs, chocolate was a source of spiritual wisdom, tremendous energy and enhanced sexual powers. The drink was highly prized as a nuptial aid, and was predictably the favorite beverage at wedding ceremonies,” writes Christine McFadden in “Chocolate.” Chocolate was given to Aztec warriors to sustain them in battle, and also played an important role in religious rituals.

Montezuma, Emperor of Mexico in the late 1400s, reportedly was a great believer in the power of chocolate. It seems he consumed copious amounts of the beverage, served in golden goblets by beautiful women, before retiring to his harem.

The Aztecs used cacoa beans as a form of currency. Folklore has it that when Christopher Columbus arrived in the New World, he was greeted with a bag of cacoa beans by Aztecs hoping to trade them for some of his goods. When Columbus looked puzzled, the Aztecs prepared a drink from some cacoa beans and offered it to Columbus and his crew. They promptly spit it out, not impressed by the bitter, cold concoction. Nevertheless, Columbus took some cacoa beans back to Spain and chocolate was introduced to Europe.

The Spanish added sugar and heated the chocolate drink, and its popularity in Europe surged. It became a drink of the rich and noble, and chocolate drinking houses sprouted up in the 1700s, akin to the coffeehouses of today.

After years of experimentation, chocolate manufacturers in Europe figured out how to separate the cacoa butter from the bean. By melting the butter, adding back some ground cacoa beans and sugar, the solid form of eating chocolate was born. Over centuries, chocolate’s popularity has continued to grow.

It feels good

What is it about eating chocolate that makes us feel so good? For centuries, chocolate has been touted for its health benefits. It has been credited for improving digestion, strengthening the heart, curing fevers, improving complexions, and generally creating agreeable temperaments.

Is there any scientific basis for the use of chocolate in treating our ills? The chemical properties of chocolate would suggest so.

Chocolate contains endorphins, which give us that boost in energy, similar to a runner’s high (without all of the hard work). The same endorphins are elevated when we fall in love, which is perhaps why we feel so good when we eat chocolate.

Caffeine and the alkaloid theobromine are also present in chocolate, both of which stimulate the central nervous system and give us that “pick me up” feeling.

Chocolate 101

If it’s chocolate enlightenment you’re after, check out the Chocolate Apothecary’s classes to learn about chocolate production and history, and try samples from different regions. The next tasting will be at 5 p.m. Sunday and costs $15. The store will also hold a Singles Night 6 p.m. Thursday for $15, and a free open house on Valentines’ Day from 5:30 to 8:30 p.m., with door prizes, chocolate trivia and samples. Call (509) 324-2424 for more information.

Learn from the experts at Hallett’s Chocolates. This Spokane institution has been in business for nearly 30 years, and offers tours at its manufacturing facility at 1419 E. Holyoke. You’ll learn about tempering, or melting chocolate properly so it can be reshaped, and enrobing, in which chocolate coating is applied to candies, nuts or other treats. Of course, finished products will be available for sampling. Call (509) 484-6454 to arrange a tour, or visit Hallett’s new coffeehouse and retail chocolate shop at Riverwalk, 1003 E. Trent Ave., (509) 487-3238.

Spokane’s hottest chocolate spots

Spokane has no shortage of places to indulge in a tempting chocolate dessert. Latah Bistro (4241 S. Cheney-Spokane Road, 509-838-8338) takes its chocolate seriously. For the purist, there’s the Chocolate Sampler, where you can choose three tastes from a huge selection of the world’s finest chocolate. Or bring your sweetie and share a Bucket of Love, a bag of tiny chili-chocolate cakes. If you don’t want to get out of your car, drive by Latah Latte (4221 S Cheney-Spokane Road, 509-838-5050) for a Mayan Mocha and a chocolate “petite,” a smaller version of the bistro’s most popular chocolate bars.

For an evening out, head to The Melting Pot (707 W. Main Ave., 509-926-8000) and try the Flaming Turtle, chocolate fondue with caramel and pecans, flambéed tableside. Fresh fruit, marshmallows and various cakes are provided for dipping.

Wild Sage Bistro (916 W. Second Ave., 509-456-7575) offers a Callebaut Chocolate Tart with Belgian dark chocolate, and Luna (5620 S. Perry St., 509-448-2383) just added a Flourless Chocolate Cake to its dessert menu.

If it’s quantity you are after, try P.F. Chang’s (801 W. Main Ave., 509-456-2166) Great Wall of Chocolate. This impressive dessert consists of a six-layer chocolate cake with raspberry sauce and is served with fresh berries.

Chocolate tasting at home

One way to beat the winter blues is to have a chocolate tasting party. Prepare a variety of chocolate desserts (or ask guests to bring their favorites) and provide small samples of a variety of chocolates.

The Ghiradelli Chocolate Cookbook recommends ½ ounce of each type of chocolate per guest, selecting five to six different kinds to taste at a formal tasting. You will probably want to purchase some extra bars for decoration and for your guests to take home. You can choose a variety of milk, dark and white chocolates, or stick to darks and compare the subtleties from different countries or regions. You may wish to provide your guests with paper and pencil to take notes, judging each chocolate on its appearance, aroma, texture and flavor.

Let the chocolate warm up to room temperature before serving. Start with the least sweet sample. Look at the chocolate. It should have a glossy sheen, indicating it has been properly cooled and stored. Break the chocolate – it should snap crisply, not crumble. Rub a piece with your fingers to release the aroma. Smell the chocolate and compare with the other samples. Try to detect hints of flavor: spicy, rich, earthy, sweet, dark, subtle and so on.

Finally, taste the chocolate by holding it in your mouth for a moment to assess the texture and let the flavors unfold.

When most of us think about cooking with chocolate, we think of sweet dishes. Some countries use chocolate in savory dishes to create deep, rich flavors. Here are a few recipes, savory and sweet, to try at home.

Three-Bean Chili

From “The Essence of Chocolate,” by John Scharffenberger and Robert Steinberg. This vegetarian chili takes on a richer color and aroma with the addition of cocoa.

1 cup diced carrots

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

3 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder

1 tablespoon chili powder

1 teaspoon dried basil, crushed

1 teaspoon dried oregano, crushed

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste

1 (28-ounce) can chopped tomatoes, with liquid

1 cup water

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste

1 (15-ounce) can red kidney beans, drained and rinsed

1 (15-ounce) can Great Northern beans, drained and rinsed

1 (15-ounce) can garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed

1 cup corn kernels, preferably fresh

1 cup diced zucchini

Salt

Bring a medium saucepan half full of water to a boil. Fill a large bowl with ice water. Add the carrots to the boiling water and blanch for about 2 minutes, or until tender. Drain the carrots in a strainer and plunge the strainer into the ice water. Remove carrots from strainer, pat dry and set aside.

In a large stockpot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook for about 1 minute, or until light golden. Add the cocoa powder, chili powder, basil, oregano, cumin and pepper. Stir in the tomatoes and their liquid, water, mustard and tomato paste. Add the beans and bring to a boil. Lower the heat, cover and simmer for 10 minutes.

Stir in the carrots, corn and zucchini. Cover and simmer for an additional 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Optional toppings: Hot sauce, Parmesan cheese, green chilies, scallions and sour cream.

Yield: 6 servings

Cocoa Spice Rub

From “The Essence of Chocolate,” by Scharffenberger and Steinberg

1 cup unsweetened cocoa (not Dutch-processed)

1/2 cup salt

Mix to combine ingredients. Rub on meat or vegetables prior to cooking in the oven or on the grill. For a fantastic roasted chicken, the authors recommend rubbing the mixture liberally over every part of the bird prior to roasting in the oven or on the grill.

Chocolate Bread Pudding

From Bon Appétit

1 3/4 cups whipping cream

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

1/4 cup whole milk

1 1/4 cups semisweet chocolate chips

1 large egg

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

4 ounces French bread with crust, cut into 1-inch cubes (about 4 cups)

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Bring cream, 1/2 cup sugar, and milk to simmer in heavy medium saucepan, stirring until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat. Add 1 cup chocolate chips and whisk until melted and smooth. Whisk egg and vanilla in large bowl to blend. Gradually whisk in hot chocolate mixture. Cool chocolate custard 10 minutes, stirring often.

Add bread cubes and remaining 1/4 cup chocolate chips to custard and toss to coat. Transfer to 1 1/2-quart-capacity shallow oval baking dish. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons sugar over mixture. Bake until custard thickens and center is just set, about 50 minutes. Serve warm.

Yield: 6 servings

Ultimate Double Chocolate Cookies

From “The Ghiradelli Chocolate Cookbook,” published by Ten Speed Press

2 cups Ghiradelli 60 percent Cacoa Bittersweet chocolate chips

6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter

3 large eggs

1 cup granulated white sugar

1/3 cup all purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

2 cups Ghiradelli Semi-Sweet chocolate chips

1 cup chopped walnuts

Melt the bittersweet chocolate chips and butter in the top of a double boiler or in a heat-proof bowl over barely simmering water, stirring occasionally until smooth.

In a large bowl, beat the eggs and sugar with an electric mixer until thick; stir in chocolate mixture. In a small bowl, stir together the flour and baking powder; stir into the chocolate mixture. Gently mix in the chocolate chips and walnuts.

Using plastic wrap, form the dough into two logs, each 2 inches in diameter and 8 inches long. As the dough will be quite soft, use the plastic wrap to keep the log shape. Wrap tightly and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or until firm.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Grease a cookie sheet. Unwrap the dough. With a sharp knife, cut the dough into ¾-inch slices. Place 1 ½ inches apart on cookie sheet. Bake 12 to 14 minutes, until a shiny crust forms on top of the cookies but the interior is still soft. Cool on cookie sheet.

Yield: 24 cookies

Mexican Hot Chocolate

From “Chocolate,” by Christine McFadden and Christine France

4 cups milk

1 cinnamon stick

2 whole cloves

4 ounces dark chocolate, chopped into small pieces

2-3 drops almond extract

Heat the milk gently with the spices in a saucepan until almost boiling, then stir in the chocolate over medium heat until melted. Strain into a blender, add almond extract and blend on high for about 30 seconds, until frothy. Or whisk with immersion blender or wire whisk. Pour into warmed glasses and serve immediately.

Yield: 4 servings