For delicious bubbles on a budget, give Prosecco, cava a try
This is the time of year that wine writers begin to taste through scores of sparkling wines in preparation for their annual holiday bubbly barrage of wine columns.
Though I have written about the pleasures of drinking sparkling wines – notably Champagne – at all times of the year, there is irrefutable evidence that the last quarter, which includes the Halloween to New Year’s holiday season, is when most folks buy and drink sparkling wines.
Over the past few days I’ve done some lovely tastings of cavas, Proseccos, and a few oddballs – sparkling grüner veltliner, anyone? Some real gems showed up. Let’s start with the Proseccos.
These sparkling wines are made exclusively in the Veneto in northeast Italy. Generally fermented in large tanks rather than in the bottle, they may be done in a frizzante (lightly sparkling) or spumante (full-on bubbly) style. Packaging varies widely, but the Proseccos sealed with either a screwcap or crown cap (like a beer bottle) tend to be lighter and more on the frizzante side. If the bottle has a champagne cork and cage, it is probably fizzier and more substantial overall.
What I personally love about Prosecco is easily summed up. It’s light, it’s bubbly, it’s unpretentious, it’s inexpensive, it’s delicious on its own and it’s supremely blendable. That said, there are some hurdles to navigate. Though most Proseccos are labeled brut, some are extra dry, which unaccountably means they are actually extra sweet. But not always. At least one extra dry that I tasted was more of a brut, and at least one brut had recognizable sweetness.
Despite the variations, it’s difficult to find a bad or even a dull Prosecco. And quality does tend to follow price. If you find that the label reads Prosecco di Valdobbiadene you are standing at home plate and ready to swing for the fences from a quality standpoint. That’s the best of the best.
Among the bottles I tasted, the favorites (with suggested retail pricing for Washington) were:
• Bisol 2009 Crede Prosecco Superiore Brut ($20). This has the depth and detail that only the finest convey.
• Rive della Chiesa Brut Prosecco ($14). Flavors of grapefruit and citrus, with a hint of bitterness.
• Desiderio Jeio Prosecco (a Vias import; $13). Also a big mouthful of grapefruit flavor.
• Valdo Prosecco ($11). Nutty, with a distinctive streak of truffle and vanilla.
• Riondo Spago Nero Prosecco ($13). Just a hint of sweetness here, with a lovely lemon drop character.
• Secco Brut White and Secco Brut Rosé ($12). A pair of charming sparklers, beautifully packaged and thoroughly delicious. The white is a blend of the Prosecco grape and a bit of pinot bianco; the rosé a blend of Prosecco and pinot nero.
Sweeter and lower in alcohol (as little as 5 percent) are the Moscato D’Asti wines from Italy’s northwest. Lusciously scented with a beguiling mix of orange blossoms, orange fruit and orange candy, they are simply irresistible. Two to look for:
• Saracco 2010 Moscato D’Asti ($16). Only the best achieve the ultimate in spritzy elegance at low alcohol. This popular import (from dalla Terra) is a delight.
• Tre Donne 2010 La Perlina Moscato d’Asti ($14). A spring bouquet of orange blossoms, alcohol at just over 5 percent, and sensational flavors of orange liqueur make this the perfect aperitif or dessert wine.
For those seeking bone dry, racy, mineral-laced sparklers, I recommend cavas. These Spanish wines are generally made from regional grapes such as xarel-lo and macabeo, but some include chardonnay as well. Often made in the traditional champagne method, these wines offer exceptional value.
The Dibon Brut Reserve Cava ($10) has tiny bubbles and the elegance and finesse of real Champagne, with surprising length.
Marques Gelida 2005 Brut Exclusive Reserva Cava ($15) is a vintage-dated sparkler, with earthy, rather exotic aromas of truffle and porcini mushrooms. It’s got what the British like to call good grip, plenty of weight, and feels substantial and full-bodied.
Freixenet Extra Dry Cordon Negro ($10) is a reliable, widely available brand that has good flavor. Even better is the Freixenet Elyssia Gran Cuvée ($19). At first a bit on the beery side, this bone dry, reserve-style cava is lightly scented with pine needles, sharp and focused in the mouth, with fine, tiny bubbles.
For something a little more special, look for cava rosés. Among the most widely available brands is Segura Viudas ($10), with clean cherry fruit streaked with vanilla. Another favorite is the Mont-Marçal Rosado Brut ($17). This vintage-dated wine has the elegance of Champagne, with exceptional focus and precision.