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Starting fresh

New year calls for new flavors, new recipes and new opportunities in the kitchen

Kirsten Harrington I Correspondent

The new year is a great opportunity to savor a new flavor, rediscover a classic or experiment with a new ingredient. It’s easy to get in a rut and stick to tried-and-true recipes, but why not shake things up in the kitchen? Here are some ideas to get you thinking.

Perfect your polenta

Made from coarsely ground cornmeal, this rustic Italian dish is the ultimate comfort food. “In Italy, it’s a communal dish served in a wooden bowl. It’s rustic and simple – I love it,” says Anna Vogel, chef and co-owner of Italia Trattoria in Spokane. “The traditional way is served soft and creamy with the cheese of the region,” says Vogel.

It can also be cooked longer until the moisture dissipates and the polenta becomes firm. Polenta can then be sliced and fried until crisp and golden. If you haven’t tried it before, invite some friends over, make green salad, open a bottle of Chianti and place a big bowl of creamy polenta in the center of the table. It might just become a new favorite.

Rediscover your roots

Winter is a great time to dig into root vegetables. Turnips, celery root and parsnips are just a few of the earthy vegetables appearing on store shelves this winter. They add great flavor to soups and stews, but many root vegetables can also be enjoyed raw. Thinly sliced parsnips add a peppery punch to salads, and celery root can be paired with green apple slices and grated carrots for a fresh, crunchy salad.

If you haven’t cooked with leeks, give this under-used winter bulb a try. “Leeks have a more delicate, refined flavor compared to onions and they have a hint of sweetness,” says Sylvia Wilson, owner of Feast Catering. “The first time I sautéed leeks in butter I was sold,” she says. “This simple combination is magical and when they’re added to soups, a quiche or a sauce, they’re sure to elevate it.”

Try a new oil

Blood orange olive oil, toasted sesame and avocado are just a few of the oils on the shelves at local grocery and kitchen stores. Pick one that strikes your fancy and start experimenting. It’s a good idea to check the label to see which oils are meant for high-heat cooking and which ones are better for cold applications.

Mike Offield of Williams Seafood recommends avocado oil for cooking seafood. It has a higher flash point than olive or grapeseed oil, which means it’s great for searing fish and gives it a nice crust. “It’s got a velvety texture,” Offield says. “You can use it just like olive oil – blend it with balsamic vinegar for salad dressings.” Williams Seafood carries regular avocado oil and several infused flavors, including lime, chipotle and garlic.

Go for the grains

Give your body a nutritional boost by incorporating some new grains into your routine. Quinoa, a high-protein, grain-like seed from South America, is an easy place to start. Cook it like rice, enjoy it as a hot breakfast cereal, or use red quinoa as a colorful base for salads.

Another choice is farro, an Italian term for ancient hulled wheat. “Emmer is the oldest variety (of farro) on the market,” says Brooke Lucy of Bluebird Grain Farms in Winthrop, Wash. She describes this simple grain as a plump, chewy berry with a nutty, sweet flavor. Farro is high in protein and low in gluten, making it easier to digest than some modern grains, according to Lucy. Farro can be served hot or cold, used in soups, salads or main dishes.

Get your game on

Tired of beef and chicken? How about trying a buffalo sirloin or some Florida gator? Local butchers and meat departments carry all kinds of choices, from cut up rabbit to yak burgers.

“A lot of people like buffalo because it is leaner (than beef),” says Mike Moir, meat specialist for Huckleberry’s Natural Market. Buffalo can be used in place of beef in any recipe and is available in several cuts. Yak patties taste “very beefy” he says, and they’re very lean. Keep in mind that lower fat meats require a lower temperature and shorter cooking time.

People flocked to alligator at a recent tasting, says Moir. “Turn it in flour and salt and pepper and fry it like chicken nuggets,” he suggests. “Then just pop the whole thing in your mouth.”

Polenta with Mascarpone and Parmesan

Courtesy of Chef Anna Vogel, Italia Trattoria, who says this creamy polenta could be served with tomato sauce or sautéed mushrooms and a green salad for a complete meal.

3 cups water

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup coarsely ground polenta (available in bulk food sections or packaged)

3 tablespoons mascarpone cheese

3 tablespoons freshly grated parmesan cheese

Freshly ground pepper

Butter

Place the water and salt in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium, and so it doesn’t clump, slowly sift in the polenta through your fingers into the water. Stir, turn the heat to medium low and keep stirring. After 10 minutes, taste the polenta. When it’s finished, it’s soft all the way through and doesn’t stick to your teeth. Add the mascarpone cheese, stir to incorporate. Remove pan from heat and stir in parmesan cheese. Serve with freshly ground pepper and a pat of butter.

Yield: 4 to 5 servings

Savory Leek Bread Pudding

Sylvia Wilson of Feast Catering adapted this from a Thomas Keller recipe.“This recipe is comfort food to me on cold days like this. It can make for a hearty side dish or you could serve it with a salad and have it as your dinner. It is quite filling and really hard not to have seconds,” she says.

3 cups leeks (about 3 to 4 depending on size)

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

4 tablespoons butter

One large loaf of French bread

3 large eggs

3 cups milk

3 cups half-and-half

1 tablespoon fresh thyme

1 tablespoon chopped chives or scallions

Fresh nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon white pepper

1 cup shredded Gouda or Emmentaler cheese

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cut leeks into 1/2-inch rounds using only white and lighter green parts. Place in a bowl of warm water to remove dirt. Mix several times and let dirt settle to the bottom. Set a skillet on medium high heat (do not add oil). Lift leeks from the water, drain and add them to the skillet. Season with ¼ teaspoon salt and stir for 5 minutes. As leeks begin to soften, lower the heat to medium low. Stir in the butter and cover the pan, stirring every 10 minutes for 30-35 minutes, until tender.

Meanwhile, cut the bread into 1-inch cubes – you should have 12 cups of bread cubes – and toast on a sheet pan. Turn the cubes after 10 minutes so they get evenly browned. Toast for another 10 minutes until dry and golden. Transfer to large bowl.

In a medium bowl whisk eggs. Add milk and half-and-half. Whisk. Add a pinch of salt, thyme, chives, pinch of fresh nutmeg and white pepper. Whisk again.

Add cooked leeks to the toasted bread and toss well. Grease a large oval or 9-by-13-inch baking dish and put 1/4 cup of cheese on the bottom. Spread half of the leek and bread mixture in the pan and sprinkle with 1/2 cup of cheese. Add the rest of leek and bread mixture to the pan.

Mix the custard once more and carefully pour enough of it to cover the bread mixture, gently pressing on the cubes of bread allowing it to soak in. Let sit 10 minutes. Then add more custard, allowing some of the bread cubes to protrude. Sprinkle the remaining 1/4 cup cheese and bake in the middle of the oven until nicely puffed and lightly browned about 1 1/2 hours.

Yield: 12 servings, as a side dish or 6 servings, as a main course

Seared Scallops in Avocado Oil

Courtesy of Mandy Offield, Williams Seafood

1/2 cup panko bread crumbs

2 teaspoons garlic powder

1 teaspoon fresh chives, chopped

1 teaspoon fresh parsley, chopped

8 jumbo sea scallops (U-10s), rinsed and drained

1/2 cup flour

1 egg, beaten

2 tablespoons avocado oil (available at Williams Seafood and some grocery stores)

In a dish, mix bread crumbs, garlic powder, chives, and parsley together. Pat scallops dry and coat with flour. Dip scallops in egg and then roll in the panko mixture, coating all sides.

Heat the avocado oil in a skillet on medium-high heat until hot. Place scallops in the skillet and cook on each side for 2 minutes, turning once. Remove from skillet and serve.

Yield: 4 servings

Quinoa and Roasted Red Pepper Chili

From Cooking Light Magazine, December 2011

2 red bell peppers

1-2 poblano chilies

4 teaspoons olive oil

3 cups chopped zucchini

1 1/2 cups chopped onion

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon chili powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon Spanish smoked paprika

1/2 cup water

1/3 cup uncooked quinoa, rinsed

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1 (14.5-ounce) can fire-roasted diced tomatoes with chipotles, not drained

1 (15-ounce) can no-salt-added pinto beans, rinsed and drained

1 cup low-sodium vegetable juice

Preheat broiler. Cut bell peppers and chilies in half lengthwise; discard seeds and membranes. Place halves, skin sides up, on a foil-lined baking sheet, and flatten with hand. Broil 10 minutes or until blackened. Place in a paper bag; fold to close tightly. Let stand 10 minutes. Peel and coarsely chop.

Heat a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add oil to pan; swirl to coat. Add zucchini, onion, and garlic; sauté 4 minutes. Stir in chili powder, cumin, and paprika; sauté for 30 seconds. Add roasted peppers and chilies, 1/2 cup water, and remaining ingredients; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low; cover and simmer for 20 minutes or until quinoa is tender.

Yield: 4 servings

Orange Hazelnut Farro Salad

Courtesy of Brooke Lucy, Bluebird Grain Farms. This salad can be served warm.

1 1/2 cups farro

4 cups water

1 organic orange, juice and zest

4 tender chard leaves, stems removed

1/3 cup dried fruit (plums, cherries or apricots)

1/3 cup roasted hazelnuts

1/4 cup hazelnut oil

1/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon agave nectar (or honey)

Place farro in saucepan and cover with 4 cups water. Simmer on medium high for 60 minutes. Drain farro. Place the cooked farro in a large mixing bowl. Remove zest from the orange (avoiding the white pith) and add it to the bowl. Chop or tear the chard into 1/2-inch strips and add to the bowl. Roughly chop the dried fruit and hazelnuts and add to the bowl. Squeeze the juice from the orange into a jar with tight lid and add the hazelnut oil, salt, Dijon and agave nectar. Put the lid on and shake well to combine. Pour 1/3 cup dressing into the farro salad and stir to coat all the ingredients. Save remaining dressing in the refrigerator.

Yield: About 4 cups

Kirsten Harrington is a Spokane freelance food writer and can be reached at kharrington67@ earthlink.net or visit her blog at chefonthego.net.