Three’s a crowd-pleaser

I don’t know about you, but it’s been last summer since I had a good 3-Way.

Now the much-anticipated IPA collaboration from Fort George is back for the season to warm the hearts of hopheads throughout the Northwest. A limited supply hit Spokane this week and has started rolling out to select accounts (Rocket Market was my hookup).

For the past four years, Astoria-based Fort George has paired with two other breweries to create the recipe. Its new partners may be the most prestigious yet, in pure IPA terms: Jackson, Wyoming’s Melvin Brewing (which just announced it will open a brewery in Bellingham ), who won gold at the 2012 Great American Beer Festival for both is regular and 2x4 imperial IPAs, and Baker City’s Barley Brown’s , whose Pallet Jack turned the trick in 2013.

While some hard-core drinkers were disappointed with last year’s more sessionable (5.7 percent ABV) collab with Georgetown and Pfriem, the new version returns to the burlier territory (7.4) of 2014’s beloved release with Boneyard and Block 15, though there’s not much malt sweetness in the golden-hued body. The hops are Apollo for bittering, Simcoe, Citra and Mosaic in the kettle and double dry-hopping with Citra, Mosaic and Galaxy.

As usual, the aroma hits huge, with a complex tropical and citrus fruitiness (particularly pineapple and grapefruit) balanced by more dank, grassy notes. The flavors starts off fruity and juicy before yielding to a pithy, piney bitterness which builds on the palate as you proceed but doesn’t overwhelm.

And when you’re all finished, there are no commitments – though you know you’ll want another one soon.