Smothered peas make a sumptuously savory pasta sauce

It had been so ingrained in me to cook peas minimally, until bright green and just tender, that it felt almost taboo to let them simmer so far past that point when I first tried it. But I stayed the course because I knew what was needed to capture the essence of the dishes I enjoyed in Italy when I visited several years ago at peak pea season.

With the coaxing of a spoon crushing them a bit as they cook, they transform into a sumptuously savory pea sauce for pasta. Once the garlic has cooked in the sauce and released a good amount of its flavor, I like to pluck it out for use later in dressing or to spread on toast. But if you want the sauce to be more garlicky, feel free to mash the cloves right into it.

Add the slightly undercooked pasta – I use whole grain, but regular is fine, too – to the skillet with a splash of starchy cooking water to loosen the sauce, and toss everything in the skillet until the pasta is al dente and nicely coated. Served with ribbons of basil and a shower of sharp Pecorino Romano (or Parmesan, if you prefer,) this delightful spring meal will open your eyes to a new way of cooking peas.

Spaghetti with Smothered Peas

¾ teaspoon fine salt, divided, plus more as needed

5 tablespoons olive oil, divided

½ large sweet onion (6 ounces total), diced

2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed

1 pound shelled tender fresh peas or frozen peas (3¾ cups; no need to defrost if frozen)

1 cup low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided, plus more to taste

12 ounces spaghetti, preferably whole grain

¼ cup freshly grated pecorino Romano cheese

¼ cup fresh basil leaves, cut into ribbons

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Season to taste with salt, if desired.

In a large, high-sided skillet over medium-low heat, heat 3 tablespoons of the oil until shimmering. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft and lightly golden but not brown, five to six minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 30 seconds.

Add the peas, broth, ½ teaspoon of the salt and ¼ teaspoon of the pepper, raise the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover and simmer, stirring occasionally and smashing some of the peas as you stir to thicken the broth, until the peas are very soft, collapsing a bit, and turn a darker shade of green, 20 to 25 minutes.

Remove the garlic cloves from the skillet and reserve for another use, such as adding to a dressing or spreading on bread. When the peas have been cooking for 15 minutes, add the pasta to the boiling water and cook it for two minutes less than the instructions on the package. Reserve about 1 cup of the pasta water, then drain the pasta and add it to the skillet with the peas. If the peas are ready before the pasta, remove them from the heat and set aside until the pasta is done.

Return the heat under the skillet to medium-high and, using tongs, toss the pasta with the peas to combine. Drizzle in the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil and enough pasta water, a few tablespoons at a time, to loosen the sauce to the desired consistency. Season with the remaining ¼ teaspoon of each salt and pepper and cook, tossing, until the pasta is al dente, about two minutes.

Divide among shallow bowls, top each bowl with the cheese and basil, season with the additional salt and/or pepper, if desired, and serve.

Yield: 4-5 servings

Storage notes: Refrigerate leftovers for up to four days.

Ellie Krieger is a cookbook author and registered nutritionist.