Arrow-right Camera
Subscribe now

Perfecting Their Pinot

Leslie Kelly The Spokesman-Revi

One of my favorite Oregon wineries has undergone something of a rebirth, making changes that should strengthen its appeal.

Knudsen Erath - a consistent producer of reasonably priced pinot noir, pinot gris and other varietals - soon will sport a new look and will be known simply as Erath Vineyards. Dick Erath, the winery’s amiable owner and one of the pioneers of the Oregon wine industry, actually bought out partner Cal Knudsen in 1989, so the metamorphasis has been a gradual one.

The winery has slowly increased production and placed a new emphasis on developing its own vineyards, using the latest pruning and trellising techniques to produce the most intensely flavored fruit.

Finally, and most importantly, Erath hired talented winemaker Rob Stuart away from Staton Hills. Stuart jumped at the chance to try to perfect pinot, a finicky grape that’s tricky to grow and even more difficult to make into great wine.

“Making pinot is pain and pleasure. It’s difficult, but when it works, it can be amazing,” said Stuart, who was in Spokane recently.

Stuart is no stranger to pinot, having made a delightful sparkling wine under his Cuvee Montagne label for a number of years. He became especially intrigued after a trip to the Burgundy region of France, the ancestral home of the pinot noir grape.

“It looks a lot like the Willamette Valley,” he said.

One advantage Oregon vintners have over their Old World counterparts is that they are not bound by archaic traditions.

“Their traditions are very male oriented,” Stuart said. “We couldn’t believe it when they said they didn’t allow women into the cellar when they were having their period.”

One example of the winery’s forward thinking is the use of plastic corks, a practice that will ultimately save consumers money because it will reduce waste associated with defective natural corks.

Another difference between Oregon and France is the style of wine. If there is an Oregon style, it probably would be described as fruitier than the muted, complex (and terrifically expensive) French Burgundies.

A recent tasting of Knudsen Erath wines reaffirmed my enthusiasm for this producer.

Its regular release of pinot noir, frequently on sale for less than $9, was bright and fruity. The reserve, which spends up to 16 months in barrels, was more intense with concentrated berry flavors. It sells for around $15.

The pinot gris ($12) was wonderfully refreshing, with lively citrus and toasted almond flavors. I was also impressed with the rich, buttery quality of the chardonnay ($15).

Stuart said wine buyers should be on the lookout for the 1994 vintage, the first harvest on which he worked. He calls it the vintage of the decade.

Shopping list: It pained me to watch a woman carefully studying the wall of wines at a Spokane supermarket. She agonized over the labels, as if looking for a hint about what the wine might have to offer. (Oh, if labels only contained such practical information.)

I wanted to go up and offer advice, but I’m no buttinski (contrary to what my sister might say).

Later, I saw no wine, but a six-pack of beer, in the woman’s cart. What a bummer.

That’s when I decided to introduce in this column a barebones, no-flowery-description shopping list of wines I’ve recently tasted and liked. It might help cut through the confusion of choosing a wine.

Of course, everyone’s taste is different and there is nothing like making your own delicious discovery. So be adventurous.

Wines included will be readily available and (mostly) affordable at around $10, though there are wines worth busting the budget for - most notably, the 1993 Woodward Canyon cabernet sauvignon. It appeared on the shelf a couple of weeks ago for around $30 (at Rosauers) and is worth every penny. The only hitch is that you should hold onto it for a few years and it will get even better.

Here are a few more suggestions:

Villa Mt. Eden (California) chardonnay, $9.

Bethel Heights (Oregon), early release pinot noir, $12.

Seghesio (California) sangiovese, $12.

Atlas Peak (California) sangiovese, $12.

Arbor Crest (Washington) merlot, $12.

Torre de Luna pinot grigio (Italy), $8.

Hyatt (Washington) cabernet sauvignon, $12.

David Bruce (California) zinfandel, $10.

Marietta Cellars (California) zinfandel, $10.

Barnard Griffin (Washington) fume blanc, $8.

Chateau Ste. Michelle (Washington) barrel fermented sauvignon blanc, $5.

Chinook (Washington) semillon, $11.

Mark your calendar: The Inland Northwest’s biggest tasting events are coming right up.

Gonzaga Prep’s annual wine festival is scheduled for March 30 beginning at 7:30 p.m. More than 50 wineries from around the world will be represented. Tickets are $15 and are available at wine stores, or contact the school at 482-4218.

The Ninth Inland Northwest Wine Experience is held at the Coeur d’Alene Resort, but organizers promise to transport tasters to “April in Paris” during the two-day event.

A public tasting of some of the most prestigious producers on the market is set for April 19 with tickets selling for $50. The following evening, an auction and lavish dinner will take place. Tickets for that are $90. After March 15, ticket prices will increase $10 for both events.

The Wine Experience is a benefit for area charities. The events have so far raised more than $500,000.

For ticket information, call 922-5656 in Spokane.

, DataTimes The following fields overflowed: CREDIT = Leslie Kelly The Spokesman-Review