Save Some Cherries For Delicious Desserts
Once upon a time I was bewildered by the paucity of cherry desserts to be found in the vast panorama of American cookbooks.
Gradually, however, I began to understand that when it came to fresh, sweet cherries - in my home, and in others where they are eaten out of hand like peanuts - very few survive long enough to be cooked.
Following are a pair of nonpie recipes for sweet cherries, such as Bing or Rainier, plus one for a homemade cherry liqueur.
Cherry Clafoutis
Adapted from “The Best Midwest Restaurant Cooking,” by Margaret E. Guthrie. This pastry is delicate and tricky to handle; if desired, substitute a favorite tart dough.
1 pound sweet cherries, washed and pitted
1/2 cup kirsch (cherry brandy)
1 tablespoon sugar
Pastry:
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons cold, unsalted butter, cut in small pieces
1 egg yolk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Filling:
3 large eggs
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1-1/2 tablespoons cake flour
1-1/2 tablespoons kirsch
3/4 cup whipping cream
Place the cherries in a medium bowl. Add the kirsch and sugar and stir. Leave at room temperature for about 2 hours, stirring occasionally.
To prepare pastry, mix the flour, sugar and salt in a large bowl. Cut in the pieces of butter until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and add the egg yolk, vanilla and lemon juice. Mix with a fork, pulling the flour mixture into the center, until the dough gathers into a ball. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Heat the oven to 325 degrees. Roll out the dough on a floured surface into a 12-inch circle. Fit the dough into a 10-inch tart pan, 1 inch deep, with a removable bottom. Refrigerate for 5 minutes.
To prepare the filling, mix the eggs, sugar, vanilla, flour and kirsch, then whisk in the cream. Drain the cherries. Remove the dough-lined tart pan from the refrigerator and place it on a sheet pan. Arrange the cherries evenly over the surface of the dough. Carefully pour the egg mixture over the cherries.
Transfer the pan to the oven and bake until a knife inserted 1 inch from the edge of the pan comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes. Place the pan on a wire rack and allow the clafoutis to cool to tepid. Remove the bottom and cut it into wedges. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Yield: 8 servings.
Cherry Batter Pudding
Adapted from “From the Farmers’ Market,” by Richard Sax with Sandra Gluck.
1 cup pitted fresh cherries
3 tablespoons kirsch (cherry brandy), optional
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon sugar
1 pinch salt
3 large eggs
1/2 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
Confectioners’ sugar
Sour cream
Soak the cherries in the brandy, if using, for at least 15 minutes.
Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Sift the flour, sugar and salt into a mixing bowl. Add the eggs and whisk until smooth. Add the milk and vanilla, whisking until well blended. Stir in the cherries and brandy.
Heat the butter in a heavy 12-inch straight-sided ovenproof skillet or a 9- by 13-inch straight-sided metal baking pan in the oven until the butter is sizzling but not brown, about 3 minutes. Pour in the batter, distributing the cherries evenly, and bake until the pudding is puffed and golden brown, about 20 minutes.
Sprinkle with confectioners sugar and serve hot from the pan. Pass sour cream at the table.
Yield: 6 servings.
Cherry Ratafia
Adapted from “Festive Favorites,” by the California Culinary Academy.
1-1/4 pounds fresh cherries
1 cup sugar
1 stick cinnamon
4 cloves, optional
1/4 teaspoon ground mace or ginger, optional
1 pint brandy or vodka
Wash and pit the cherries. Place the cherries in a bowl and crush them slightly. Transfer the cherries and any juice to a bottling jar. Add the cherry pits, sugar, cinnamon and optional cloves and ginger and stir. Pour in the brandy or vodka.
Close the jar tightly and marinate the fruit at room temperature for at least 1 month. Strain through cheesecloth, discard the solids and serve in small portions as an after-dinner liqueur.
Yield: About 1 quart.