Pizza Rates, Beer Is Flat

History tells us that the frozen pizza was invented in the early 1960s. Apparently, there’s been little progress in the technology since then.

That’s why we figured all the advertising hoopla over the new DiGiorno Rising Crust Pizza, which promises a crust that actually tastes fresher than the box it comes in, was just so much hype.

But when we stacked it up against three of the leading freezer case competitors in a recent session of The Spokesman-Review’s reader food panel, DiGiorno won hands down.

The crust, which isn’t pre-baked, actually rises while the pizza heats; you start it in a cold oven and cook it a little longer, between 20 and 30 minutes. The improvement in taste and texture is indeed striking.

The DiGiorno looked and smelled great, and had more pepperoni per square inch (yes, we counted) than the others sampled - Red Baron, Tombstone and Tony’s - while also boasting the lowest percentage of calories from fat. And although it had a higher price tag than the others, that’s mainly because it’s bigger; on an ounce-for-ounce basis, there’s little difference in cost at all.

(A footnote: In an at-home testing, another new-wave frozen pie that recently hit the market - The Sedona Grill Wood-Fired Pizza, an attempt to mimic the wood-fired oven pizzas so trendy in restaurants these days - also fared well.

Toppings include some more gourmet ingredients, such as spinach, sun-dried tomatoes and red onions, and the thin crust is pleasantly crisp, though you have to be careful about overbaking. But you pay a pretty price for what you get; a 12.5-ounce pizza cost us $4.29, which works out to about twice as much per ounce as DiGiorno and the others.) , Since pizza and beer are a natural fit, but beer and company policy aren’t, we served panel members the next-best thing: non-alcoholic beer.

In this case, “next best” means a far cry from the real stuff. Both beer drinkers and non-drinkers alike on the panel were less than impressed with the imitation brews.

The favorite was, not surprisingly, the spendiest: Haake Beck, a German import that actually has some malt body and hop taste, but costs almost twice as much as the leading domestics, Sharp’s from Miller and O’Doul’s from Anheuser-Busch. What you think of those two will probably depend on whether you prefer Miller or Bud.

When the evening ended, most of the glasses remained half-full. As panel member Larry Kelly wrote: “I have had enough fake beer now. I have to drive home.”

DiGiorno Supreme Rising Crust Pizza

Price: $5.79 for 33.28 ounces (6 slices).

Nutrition: 380 calories (36 percent fat calories); 1,050 milligrams sodium per slice.

Taste: ****

Value: ****

Comments: “Great-tasting crust, nice and crispy. Vegetables retained their crunch as well as could be expected on frozen pizza. Good sauce - needs more cheese!” - Meagan Coffey.

“Very good appearance. Impressive flavor and variety of toppings for a frozen pizza. Crust has good texture. Excellent sauce and just the right amount of cheese. I’ll buy one on the way home.” - Helen Span.

Tony’s Deep Dish Supreme Pizza

Price: $3.19 for 20.8 ounces (4 slices).

Nutrition: 350 calories (41 percent fat calories); 880 milligrams sodium per slice.

Taste: **

Value: ***

Comments:”Needs more sauce. Crust is dry. Toppings not wonderful.” - Bob Bates.

“Sauce was adequate, nice and spicy. Needs more cheese - crust leaves something to be desired.” - Jim Eggers.

Red Baron Premium Supreme Pizza

Price: $3.99 for 24.2 ounces (5 slices).

Nutrition: 350 calories (46 percent fat calories); 710 milligrams sodium per slice.

Taste: **

Value: ***

Comments: “Green-looking sausage. Bland, not as good as the others.” - Larry Kelly.

“Generous toppings, milder sauce, nice amount of cheese. Crust is OK, but very much like a frozen crust.” - Sandy Davidson.

Tombstone Super Supreme Pizza, Special Order Thick Crust

Price: $4.69 for 28.95 ounces (6 slices).

Nutrition: 350 calories (46 percent fat calories); 750 milligrams sodium per slice.

Taste: **

Value: ***

Comments: “Crust is too dry and crunchy. Pretty greasy. Tastes too much like frozen pizza! Not real good.” - Sandi Kessler.

“Generous amount of toppings. Crust is pretty awful. Wouldn’t buy.” - Cheryl Caudill.

Haake Beck Non-Alcoholic Malt Beverage

Price: $5.99 for 6 (12-ounce) bottles.

Nutrition: No information listed.

Taste: ***

Value: **

Comments: “Voila - it has some flavor. Almost tastes real. I could handle this one.” - Jan Robison.

“Very heady, hearty - strong flavor. A little bitter by comparison, but it stays with you a little longer, as a ‘real’ beer should.” - Sandy Davidson.

Sharp’s Non-Alcoholic Brew

Price: $2.79 for 6 (12-ounce) bottles.

Nutrition: 58 calories (no fat) per bottle.

Taste: ***

Value: ***

Comments: “Smells just like beer … very clean taste, very clear-looking.” - Larry Kelly.

“Flavored water. Spend the money on a Coke. Small aftertaste.” - Bob Bates.

O’Doul’s Non-Alcoholic Brew

Price: $3.39 for 6 (12-ounce) bottles.

Nutrition: 70 calories (no fat) per bottle.

Taste: **

Value: **

Comments: “Pretty good head. Tastes very watery. This one wouldn’t fool me!” - Sandi Kessler.

“If I were a beer drinker, this would cure me. Not at all good.” - Jim Eggers.

, DataTimes MEMO: Products sampled by The Spokesman-Review’s reader food panel are prepared in a test kitchen according to package directions. Panelists are not aware of a product’s brand name or price until after they have tasted it. Products are rated for taste and for value, based on quality compared to price.