Falling Off-Track And Into Kitchen

Dave Klyzek’s career crisis had delicious consequences.

Six years ago, the one-time Spokane Community College track coach decided to turn in his stopwatch and take up cooking.

“There were a lot of reasons I lost the desire to coach,” said the 41-year-old chef at MacDonald’s Hudson Bay Resort in Bayview, Idaho (208-683-2211). “When I was at the University of Oregon, I saw the darker side of collegiate sports. People were always looking for ways around the rules to keep students academically eligible. There was a huge amount of pressure on students and coaches to perform.

“Plus, I got tired of putting so much effort and so many hours into it and getting so little monetarily,” said Klyzek, who received his physical education degree from Eastern Washington University in 1980.

After he quit coaching, Klyzek held a number of jobs. He worked construction and in a factory. He took a course in commercial fishing. But nothing clicked.

Then his brother got married and had his reception at a renowned restaurant called The Sanctuary, just north of Astoria, Ore. Klyzek poked his head in the kitchen and got hooked.

“I loved walking in and seeing all the activity. The chef there was French-trained and I decided to go to work with him,” he said.

That meant squeezing cooking in on weekends and holidays, while continuing his regular job. In 1993, Klyzek decided to sell everything he owned and enroll in the country’s most prestigious cooking school, the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y.

After finishing the 21-month program, he was hired by the famous French master chef Maxime Ribera at Maxime’s, just north of New York City. But the 18-hour days and angry outbursts by his boss soured him.

“When he got mad, he would hit me with hot pans,” Klyzek said. “After about the third time, I told him that I was a grown man and he could yell at me all he wanted, but quit hitting me.”

When he was asked to leave, Klyzek’s reaction was: “Great.”

He later learned that most people who had worked at Maxime’s had been fired.

Klyzek moved on to restaurants in Phoenix and Portland, but developed health problems related to standing for such long stretches. After rehabilitating, he returned to the Spokane area, planning to eventually cook in Alaska. Then he heard about a job at MacDonald’s from a buddy he had worked with at SCC.

The family-owned resort on the shores of Lake Pend Oreille has given Klyzek the chance to use his considerable skills in pretty mellow surroundings. Klyzek has the freedom to play, but prefers to stick with classic meals that have a French twist.

“I’ve talked to a few people about coming to work here, but they say it’s not cutting-edge enough,” he said. “What you need to remember is that there’s nothing wrong with doing the basics and doing them well.”

There’s nothing basic about some of his creations, including a recent baked salmon fillet special topped with golden, crispy potato “scales” and swimming in a light, perfectly seasoned lemon beurre blanc.

“I get a lot of satisfaction when people tell me things like ‘those are the best mashed potatoes I’ve ever eaten,”’ Klyzek said.

All of the restaurant’s sauces, soups and desserts, including the decadent creme brulee, are made from scratch.

This summer - his second season at MacDonald’s - Klyzek has more room to flex his culinary muscle. A brand-new kitchen has been added to the eatery that sits on a pier near a busy marina.

He’s also got some extra hands this time around.-One of the owners, Mary MacDonald, and her son, Ryan, are helping out.

It’s a far cry from the days of getting smacked with a hot skillet. Still, Klyzek remains good-natured about his experiences.

“If Maxime walked in here right now, I’d give him a hug,” he said. “He taught me a lot.”

Angel’s Halibut

Klyzek said this recipe was inspired by an angelic friend. The vibrant flavors are heavenly.

1 shallot, peeled and sliced thin

1 cup dry white wine

3/4 cup pureed mango

1 cup heavy cream

Salt, to taste

Lemon juice, to taste

4 (6-ounce) halibut fillets

White pepper, to taste

Flour, as needed

1 tablespoon olive oil

For the sauce, combine the shallots and white wine in a nonreactive pan. Cook over medium-high heat until the wine has almost evaporated. Add mango puree, bring to a boil and add cream. Cook until reduced by half. Strain out shallots and season sauce with salt and lemon juice.

Season the fish with salt and white pepper. Sprinkle with flour, shaking off the excess. Heat saute pan until hot and add olive oil. When oil is hot add fish, flesh side down. Lower heat to medium high. After 2 to 3 minutes, turn fish over and cook to preferred doneness. (The fish also could be grilled; leave off the flour.)

To serve, ladle sauce over fish.

Yield: 4 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 636 calories, 40 grams fat (57 percent fat calories), 21 grams carbohydrate, 39 grams protein, 136 milligrams cholesterol, 119 milligrams sodium.

Chef du Jour is a monthly feature of IN Food that profiles area chefs and provides one of their recipes for readers to try at home.