Time’s right for meatloaf

‘Ever wonder what foods the Vikings ate when they set off to explore the New World? How Thomas Jefferson made his ice cream? Who invented the potato chip … and why?” The food timeline Web site, www.foodtimeline.org, asks and answers, these questions and scads more, all the way up to “Deep fried Coca-Cola” in 2006.

It figures that a reference librarian, Lynne Olver, would be involved in such a formidable undertaking. The timeline begins well before the development of agriculture, detailing the places and times at which the vast array of foods in our omnivorous diet first appeared, as well as corresponding recipes. It’s a potential time-sucker of the highest order.

I was just looking for meatloaf (or meat loaf, if you prefer) on my latest visit, not that I could leave it at that. As it turns out, ground meat, mixed with various goodies, has been with us not quite forever, but pretty close. Why?

“To distribute meat to more people (protein economy.) To conserve resources (use it up, don’t throw it out). To make tough meat more palatable (aid digestion),” according to Olver’s food timeline. These are all good, practical reasons, but it misses the best: It’s good grub, and can range from near-Spartan to Bacchanalian in preparation.

The first “modern” meatloaf recipes apparently didn’t start to appear until the 1880’s, possibly because of the lack of reliable refrigeration, or the availability of food grinders. I’ve got a different reason, though. Which came first, the meatloaf, or the ketchup? Meatloaf had to wait until 1876, for the invention of its one, true, necessary, can’t-replace ingredient: Heinz Ketchup.

The meatloaf I’m offering up here is basically a “classic” loaf; not gussied up too much, but good. It’s more casual-Friday than Sunday-go-to-meeting, but with enough personality to be a good blind date. It may be even worth a first-date kiss.

The lemon and tomatoes brighten the loaf, and the capers and anchovy paste replace salt, as more interesting accents. (Don’t skip the paste; it’s not at all “fishy” here.) It’s also well worth going to a little extra trouble to find Spanish paprika (www.ethnicgrocer.com). You’ll never go back once you give it a try.

As for Jefferson’s ice cream? “Jefferson was able to enjoy ice cream throughout the year because ice was ‘harvested’ from the Rivanna River in winter and taken to the Monticello ice house, which held 62 wagon loads.” The Vikings? Potato chips? Coca Cola? Go to www.foodtimeline.org to find out – but don’t be surprised if a couple of hours just suddenly get away from you.

Blind Date Meatloaf

1/2 cup sun-dried tomatoes, preferably not oil-packed

6 cloves garlic, minced, about 3 tablespoons

1 large, finely chopped onion

2 medium ribs celery, finely chopped

Juice of 1 small lemon

2 scallions with green tops, finely sliced

2 tablespoons capers, chopped

1 teaspoon anchovy paste

1 teaspoon freshly ground dried chipotle chili (see note) substitute chipotle in adobo sauce, if necessary, but dried chilies are better)

2 teaspoons hot or sweet (your call, for heat) Spanish paprika powder

1/2 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper

1/3 cup Heinz tomato ketchup, plus about the same amount for topping

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

2 pounds extra lean ground beef

1 egg, beaten

1 to 1 1/2 cups fresh (or packaged) bread crumbs

Ketchup

2 tablespoons Bufalo brand chipotle hot sauce

If using dry sun-dried tomatoes, rehydrate in 1/4 cup water, microwaved 45 seconds or so, for at least half an hour. While you wait, mince, chop, and get all ingredients up to olive oil in place.

Heat oil in a large skillet on medium high, sauté garlic 30 seconds, and then add celery and onion. Cook over medium heat until soft, about five minutes, stirring frequently.

Turn off heat, stir in tomatoes with their liquid, lemon juice, scallions, capers, anchovy paste, chipotle powder, paprika, black pepper and 1/3 cup ketchup. Mix thoroughly.

Get a big mixing bowl, plop in the ground beef and onion mixture, add the egg, and mix well with hands. Work in bread crumbs to desired consistency; it should be moist but hold together.

Grease a round 8-inch-by-3-inch deep oven proof dish. (Round meatloaf is cool, but go for the traditional rectangular, if you’re planning on meatloaf sandwiches.) Shape the meatloaf to fit, rounded on top, and slather with about a third to half cup of ketchup and a couple of tablespoons of chipotle sauce.

Bake for 45 minutes, to firm up, then put a meat thermometer in the center. Cook until the thermometer reads 150-155 degrees, about another 45 minutes (or a bit longer), and remove. Let loaf rest 10 minutes, tented with foil, then cut in wedges and serve. (I recommend pouring off excess fat, easiest to do after you remove the first slice.)

Yield: 6 main-course servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: 411 calories, 18 grams fat (6 grams saturated, 40 percent fat calories), 36 grams protein, 24 grams carbohydrate, 91 milligrams cholesterol, 2.4 grams dietary fiber, 747 milligrams sodium.