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Just beet it

Raw or roasted, jewel-toned beets lend an earthy flavor to autumn salads and sides. (ADRIANA JANOVICH adrianaj@spokesman.com)

Crimson-colored beets are good for much more than – but often only associated with – that good old Slavic staple: borscht.

Yet, there are so many ways to enjoy the herbaceous and somewhat grassy groundling that always seems to taste of the earth from which it was dug.

The humble root vegetable with the deep, royal hue can be intimidating; its purplish-red juice stains clothing and counter tops, so exercise caution. Or, opt for golden, white or red-and-white beets.

The taproot is low in calories and rich in folate and vitamins A, C and K as well as dietary fiber. The flavor is reminiscent of spinach and carrot combined, but a little bit sweeter and much less bitter.

Roasted beets pair well with thyme or tarragon and raspberry or pomegranate vinegar and goat cheese or Gorgonzola. They’re somehow both soft and crunchy when roasted just right, off-setting the tangy creaminess of the cheese.

Some like them velvety – and simply boiled or steamed and eaten with butter, salt and pepper. Slice them for vibrant color and crunch in fall salads. Puree them for soups, slice and pickle them, juice them or use them to infuse tequila like El Que does Spokane’s Browne’s Addition. (Have you tried the tequila bar’s Fresh Beats? It’s one of my favorite beverages on the menu there. )

Whatever you do, don’t waste the greens. Sauté them with olive, salt, pepper and garlic, like you would to make Swiss Chard Dalmatian Style.

Avoid limp leaves or wrinkly skins. Look for bright green leaves and smooth, unblemished skin with a firm texture.

Beet, Ginger and Coconut Milk Soup

From Andrea Bemis, Self magazine, September 2013

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1 tablespoon olive oil

1 large yellow onion, diced

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped ginger

3 large red beets, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch pieces

5 cups vegetable stock, divided

1 can (14.5 ounce) low-fat coconut milk

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Parsley (optional)

Canned julienned beets (optional)

Crusty bread (optional)

In a large pot, heat oil over medium heat. Sauté onion, 5 minutes. Add garlic and ginger; cook, stirring often, 5 minutes. Add beets and 4 cups stock; bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until beets are fork-tender, 20 minutes. With an immersion or regular blender, puree soup, adding remaining 1 cup stock as needed to reach desired consistency. Stir in milk, salt and pepper. Garnish with parsley and julienned beets and serve with bread, if desired.

Yield: 4 servings

Ginger-Beet Juice

From EatingWell magazine, September/October 2013

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1 medium orange, peeled and quartered

3 kale leaves

1 medium apple, cut into wedges

1 medium carrot, peeled

1 large beet, peeled and cut into wedges

1 (1-inch) piece peeled fresh ginger

Ice cubes (optional)

Working in this order, process orange, kale, apple, carrot, beet and ginger through a juicer according to the manufacturer’s directions.

Fill 2 glasses with ice, if desired, and pour the juice into the glasses. Serve immediately.

Makes: 2 servings

Beet, Fennel, Apple and Dill Vegetarian Burgers

From “Mildreds the Cookbook”

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3 small or 2 medium beets, peeled and coarsely grated

2 apples, coarsely grated

1 fennel bulb, trimmed and finely chopped

1 bunch dill leaves, chopped

1 tablespoon fennel seeds, toasted and lightly ground

1 1/4 pounds dried soy protein mix or other vegetarian, dehydrated sausage mix

2 cups water, plus extra if needed

Light olive oil or other light cooking oil (such as canola oil, peanut or sunflower oil)

To make the patties, combine all the ingredients except the oil in a large mixing bowl and knead together with your hands for 5 minutes to form a dense but pliable mixture. Cover with plastic wrap and let chill in the fridge for 15 minutes.

Once rested, divide the mixture into 6 to 10 evenly sized pieces. (You may find at this point that the mixture is too solid to divide easily. If so, simply add a little water, ensuring that you stir it throughout thoroughly.) Shape the pieces into circular patties about ¾ to 1 inch in thickness.

Heat a splash of oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When hot, add the patties and fry for 10 minutes on each side.

Serving suggestions: Set the burgers into toasted sourdough buns and stuff with arugula, tomato and red onion slices, vegan basil mayonnaise and carrot relish, as desired.

Makes: 6 to 10 patties

Beet, Ginger and Mango Salad

From “Salmagundi” by Sally Butcher

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3 medium beets

1/2-inch knob fresh ginger, peeled and minced

1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses

Juice and zest of 1/2 small orange

Juice and zest of 1/2 lime

1/2 teaspoon ground fennel seeds

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 fat mango

2 to 3 scallions, finely chopped

Big handful of fresh mint, shredded

Peel the beets and cut them roughly into 5/8-inch cubes. Put them in a pan of unsalted cold water and bring to a gentle boil, about 25 minutes, to get them tender but firm. Drain and refresh under cold water to stop them from cooking further.

Whisk the ginger, oil, molasses, juice and zest, fennel seeds and seasoning together and pour it over the beets. Peel and cut the mango into chunks, then stir it into the salad along with the scallions and mint. Mix gently and refrigerate for 30 minutes or so to let the flavors meld.

Note: Papaya, apple, kiwi, pineapple or pear could be used in place of mango.

Roasted Beets

From “Barefoot in Paris” by Ina Garten

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12 beets

3 tablespoons good olive oil

1 1/2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, minced

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons raspberry vinegar

Juice of 1 large orange

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Remove the tops and the roots of the beets and peel each one with a vegetable peeler. Cut the beets in 1 1/2-inch chunks. (Small beets can be halved, medium ones cut in quarters, and large beets cut in eighths.)

Place the cut beets on a baking sheet and toss with the olive oil, thyme leaves, salt, and pepper. Roast for 35 to 40 minutes, turning once or twice with a spatula, until the beets are tender. Remove from the oven and immediately toss with the vinegar and orange juice. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve warm.