Hoppy Holidays To You
That’s the matter, Bunky? Bored already? Need some new beers to play with?
Arriving earlier than ever, most winter holiday beers have been out for weeks, even months, by now. It’s sort of like those Christmas toys come mid-January: They’re still fun to play with once in a while, but the novelty is long gone.
Don’t despair. Here are our recommendations for some distinctive brews that aren’t necessarily seasonal, but can help make your holidays more merry and bright.
You’ll need to visit a specialty store, like Huckle-berry’s Fresh Market or Jim’s Home Brew Supply, and expect to pay a premium price. But, hey — if you want to play Scrooge, stick to the screw-tops.
* Young’s Old Nick ($4-$5 for 16.9 ounces): No, not jolly Saint Nick — we’re talking Old Nick, as in Old Scratch, as in the devil, who appears surrounded by flames on the label of this British barley wine. Milder in both alcohol content (a still-strong 6.8 percent by volume) and character than most American barley wines, this one is sweet, smooth and fruity; British authority Michael Jackson describes it best in his new book, “Ultimate Beer,” as “a rich, toffeeish brew with a banana liqueur finish.” Banana in beer? Must be the work of the devil!
Hair of the Dog Golden Rose ($3-$3.50 for 12 ounces): Just about any Belgian beer is a special treat, but if you want to buy American (and maybe save a few pennies), check out this Portland brewery’s rendition of a traditional Belgian tripel. Brewed with honey malt and candy sugar, the reddish-amber Golden Rose (7.5 percent alcohol by volume) is rich, warming and complex, its maltiness balanced by tangy, herbal hop notes and a dryish finish. Think of it as a tripel by another name that still tastes as sweet.
Liefmans Gluhkriek ($14-$15 for 25.4 ounces): Unusual even by Belgian standards, this imported, cherry-flavored brown ale (6.5 percent abv), spiced with cinnamon, cloves and anise, is intended to be served warm, like a mulled wine.
And unless the store has already removed it, it comes in a seasonally appropriate green paper wrapper adorned with red cherries.
Traquair Jacobite Ale (about $5 for 11.2 ounces): Another spicy, pricey import, this one from the house brewery at a Scottish manor owned by a branch of the royal Stuart family. Jacobite - named after loyalists of King James II - is a soft, strong (8 percent abv), earthy beer brewed with coriander and capped by a lingering finish that dances between sweet and spicy. (By the way, legend has it the last person to pass through the long-closed gates guarding the approach to Traquair House was Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1745. Looking for a Jacobite, no doubt.) Rogue Hazelnut Brown Nectar (about $3.50 for 22 ounces): From Oregon, modern home of the hazelnut, comes this year-round beer bursting with holiday-friendly flavor. While the Newport brewery is known for a heavy hand with the hops, this mellow brown ale (5.5 percent abv) boasts a complex malt character (a blend of eight varieties) set off by a healthy dose of hazelnut extract. It’s one of the few beers that can hold its own against a Christmas cookie - or even a fruitcake.
Alaskan Smoked Porter ($3-$3.50 for 16 ounces): A true seasonal offering all the way from Juneau, made with malt smoked over alder wood at a neighboring salmon smokery. The big, black beer (6.1 percent abv) starts out relatively soft and creamy, but the smokiness starts building quickly and soon overwhelms the senses. Not for timid tastes, this beer is probably best paired with salty, smoky snacks (salmon and cheese, anyone?) and also displays a wonderful affinity for dark chocolate.
Ayinger Celebrator ($2.50-$3 for 11.2 ounces): On the more approachable side, German doppelbocks offer full, rich flavors with the lighter roundness typical of lagers. There are a few good ones to choose from, including Paulaner Salvator and Spaten Optimator. But Celebrator (7.2 percent abv) gets our nod because of the festive name and the tiny plastic goat (the symbol of bock beers) that hangs around the neck, which would make a nifty little Christmas ornament. Imagine a whole string of them circling the tree, like popcorn. (Just be careful trying to drink that much Celebrator by yourself.)
Que Sierra, Sierra
Sierra Nevada’s seasonal Celebration Ale finally arrived in Spokane last week, almost a month later than expected, because of what the distributor calls a delivery mixup.
While seemingly a bit lighter-bodied than last year, the copper-colored winter classic is again full of piney, resiny hop flavor and aroma. Like they say, good things come to those who wait.
Ultimate Jackson
If you’re looking for gift ideas for a beer buff - or already thinking about what to buy yourself with that check Aunt Esther sends every year - Michael Jackson’s aforementioned new book, “Ultimate Beer” (DK Publishing, $29.95), is worth checking out.
While Jackson has covered the basic territory many times over, this is his most in-depth examination of individual beers, each photographed handsomely in the appropriate glassware. And while many of them are foreign brews we’ll never see around these parts, you can almost taste them through his vivid descriptions.
Look for it at local bookstores, who would be happy to order it for you if they don’t have it in stock.
On Tap is a monthly feature of IN Food. Write to: On Tap, Features Department, The Spokesman-Review, P.O. Box 2160, Spokane, WA 99210, call 459-5446, fax to 459-5098 or e-mail to rickb@spokesman.com