Changes At The Crest

With shades of “Falcon Crest,” the past couple of months have seen some major changes at Arbor Crest.

Founder David Mielke retired this spring, shifting full ownership of the winery to his brother, Dr. Harold Mielke, and Harold’s wife, Marcia.

Then, about a month ago, wine-maker Mikhail Brunstein was downsized. This is the same guy Dave Mielke called brilliant in an interview last January. Brunstein had put in eight years at Arbor Crest, and in a recent issue of The Wine Spectator, the wines he made scored in the high 80s.

At 60, Brunstein’s now out looking for another job, eventually planning to start his own winery.

OK, change can be painful. But it can also be rejuvenating.

Harold Mielke’s highly qualified daughter is now Arbor Crest’s winemaker and co-general manager.

Kristina Van Loben Sels, a graduate of the University of California, Davis, has spent the past six years as an associate winemaker at the prestigious Ferrari-Carano Vineyards in California’s Alexander Valley. There, she helped create an experimental program and directed the winery’s lab.

Van Loben Sels’ husband, Jim, also a UC Davis grad, has joined the winery as co-general manager. His specialty is viticulture and agricultural economics.

The winery announced this reorganization last week. A news release said: “Although there will be a change and a new focus, the new ownership and the management’s commitment to quality will be unparalleled.”

That new focus will include scaling back the number of wines produced, dropping the rose and concentrating on the reserve line, according to Joe Algeo, Arbor Crest’s marketing director.

In the meantime, you’ll still taste Brunstein’s influence for a while, with a couple years’ worth of his wine in inventory. The ‘97 chardonnay has become a favorite - a lean, bright chard not weighed down with wood. It’s a nice break from the heavy, oaky style that dominates the market.

Stay tuned for further developments on the Arbor Crest front.

More trippin’

Sick of hearing about my wine adventures in Europe yet?

Stick with me for just one more chapter.

No matter where we traveled, we ran into vineyards. Certainly in Bordeaux, but also in unlikely locales ranging from the Alps to the perilously steep cliffs on the Italian coast.

No wonder wine there is so cheap. There’s just so darned much of it. In 1997, France produced 1.4 billion gallons (compared to the United States at 534 million). Italy was right behind, with 1.3 billion gallons.

Unfortunately, in the beautiful Chianti region of Tuscany, wineries don’t really welcome drop-in tasters. Make an appointment, and you’ll likely be treated very well. But those visits can go on for hours.

I discovered the best strategy for tasting a bunch of different wines in Tuscany was to go to an enoteca, a wine bar that also sold bottles and maybe some foodstuffs.

We sampled the famous Montelcino wines in a magnificent centuries-old fort in that beautiful hill town. And at another enoteca that also sold sweets, we bought crunchy almond cookies made for dunking into this dessert wine called vin santo.

Even in a small village near our middle-of-nowhere digs, there was a wine bar with at least a dozen bottles sitting on the counter. Using my best phrasebook Italian, I pointed to one and said “per favore.”

Everybody was abuzz about how great the ‘97 Chiantis were. I tasted a few that were solid but nothing that blew me away. Not like the reds from southern France.

If I had it to do all over again, I would have spent more time in Provence tasting the wines of the Cote du Rhone. For one thing, the area was dramatically beautiful - rolling hills with miles and miles of the squattiest grapevines in the rockiest soil. And it was absolutely packed with welcoming producers. I envied the Europeans I saw filling their trunks with cases of cheap, fantastic reds made with syrah, grenache, mourvedre and other grapes.

We stayed near the tiny village of Gigondas. Hate to sound like a guidebook, but it was utterly charming. On its ancient stone town square, there were at least a half-dozen producers with tasting rooms.

I brought home a few bottles but now wish there was more room in my suitcase. When I got back, I went to Huckleberry’s to check out its selection of Gigondas wines. The least expensive was $30. So much for a good value.

I guess I’ll just have to go back to France. Right after I take care of that nasty credit card bill.

Picture this tasting

Wines from Latah Creek will be poured during The Waterford’s third annual tasting and art show Sept. 17.

The show will feature historic photos of Spokane, on loan from Cheney Cowles Museum, Spokane Public Library and residents of the South Hill retirement community at 29th and Pittsburg.

While guests sip wine and look at pictures of old Spokane, Arthur Zepp will provide musical entertainment. The event runs from 2 until 4 p.m.

It’s free, but guests need to RSVP by calling 536-2929, extension 152.

Wine with a beat

You’ve heard of food and wine pairings, of course.

But I got the biggest kick out of a news release suggesting what music to listen to while drinking a certain wine.

According to Canoe Ridge winemaker John Abbott, the ‘97 merlot calls for “Van Morrison, and any Fleetwood Mac or Mark Knopfler, especially with Chet Atkins. If you’re feeling adventuresome, try it with spicy Buffalo wings and Cake’s remake of Gloria Gaynor’s `I Will Survive.”’

Now, I don’t recall what was on the stereo when I sipped this powerhouse. Only that I was mighty impressed. They’ve come a long way, baby.

This velvety rich merlot (which goes for just under $20) is one of the best I’ve tasted from a very good year. Check it out.