Though nonalcoholic wines aren’t a new invention, good ones are. The first one I tasted, more than 20 years ago at a Thanksgiving dinner, was little more than dark grape juice in a fancy bottle, and while I was happy to have something a bit more sophisticated to sip at dinner, it was more about fitting in than outright enjoyment. It also felt like a shame to pair good food with not-so-good wine – especially on the one holiday that’s specifically all about the food – but still, it was better than drinking soda.